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aero. fpr is perfect inside, no rips, tears or anything. Clamped the return line closed and it held 31 psi for 5 minutes perfectly. unless im missing something, this regualtor doesnt hold rest pressure. aeromotive techs wont be back till monday and ill see what they say. be back with o2...

update: double checked a few things before i began to pull the injectors, i must have pinched the fuel feed line. They run side by side until under the intake mani on my setup. Pinching the return line pegs the fuel gauge at 90psi. time for a rebuild.

no luck with jumping the fp before restart (let it prime for a good 20-30 seconds), still rough and af ratio climbs off the chart lean within a few seconds. Fuel pressure jumped to 30-32 psi once started (no real cranking time needed, starts right up) and dipped back to 25psi. After i primed...

agreed, ill pull the rail off this weekend and see if the injectors are leaking. how do i test the hac on an 89+?

Yes, yes it did. I didnt pay much attention to it then, i thought that was just how the car acted. is there a certain temp the VSV has to see before it operates? Ill pull them off and check. Would i get a smoke show on start up with that much fuel? idle is actually lean (15.5-16.5)...

got it from mvp motorsports, other then that i wouldnt know how to tell if it was fake, had the walbro W on it too. it did this with the oem pump too.

wires start at 4.8k and get less as the length shortens. AIT checks out. The fuel pressure does not change when i pinch the return line, Pump is new. CSI is not leaking. I havent pulled the fuel rail to see if the injectors leak, is there another way to check this? when i shut the car...

ignitor is grounded per the thread you posted, along with the o2 sensor. ill get the wires and the AIT checked this afternoon and then is there a way to test the HAC? searching shows its built into the ecu for the 89's

recently sold 03 dodge ram, i left the belt off when i changed the idler pulley, chewed it up nicely and scared the shit out of me at first. same truck: did a cam swap, and the lifters bleed down if you crank the motor by hand (not enough rpms etc..). on start up it made the most terrifying...

rebuild it first, you'll wish you had :)

you bought a new head casting from toyota?

fuel pressure has always been what i set it at when running(base setting that is), now once the car is off, the gauge reads zero. Its tapped into the side of the aeromotive fpr. Its been like this since ive had it. Only thing i can think of is that the port i get the reading from is at the...

ok ISCV and new grounds had no effect on it. Wires are newer, not orginals, but ill have to test them in the am, left the car at my old mans shop since its supposed to freeze tonight. coils are new, ISCV has NO coolant lines hooked up (if that matters) and clicks a few times when i shut it...

ive owned 3 electric ones, all leaked at the butterfly valve at some point (VERY annoying) as the motor lost its ability to hold the seal with heat/exhaust pressure.

i have not since ive had the car, carb cleaner ok? -wires -add ignitor and o2 grounds -clean iscv i should be able to get to this tonight and ill report back

ill ohm test the wires, plugs are NGK bcpr7es gapped at .028. ill double check the igniter ground. never had vapor lock, what does it do?

how did you set your idle? i am under the impression the ecu controls that.

no fpr gets vac strait from the manifold. Starts great, maybe a second or two of crank time depending on how long it cools off for. Hot restarts are perfect in regards to idle quality right after the start.

id check the plug if your getting both codes, they are their own circuits within the same housing.

what would cause a very poor idle after a warm restart? it idles off the charts lean and misses along with right above 500 rpms for idle. Once i start driving and egts increase (above 500 degrees f) it smooths out and no issues even at idle. revs fine and only area that you can notice the...