no, i think your going off of bad data, or lack of actual data. "smelling" the exhaust is useless, as one person thinks it stinks, another smells no difference.
search the j tube and its affects with X setups... i havent had to deal with this so i dont know how that affects things.
anything closed loop is controlled by the ecu. it will do what ever it can to put it at stoich. unless he is stuck in warm up enrichment, the ecu should compensate under normal part throttle (idle too) conditions. i dont know how the j tube affects this unless its open loop operation.
ya dont even bother with stock lines, your straw at mcdonalds has more flow...
there is NOTHING on the stock setup that you want to reuse (except the filter head if you block off the bypass port)
i have the tacoma clutch, and with a 192 t stat and the fluidine rad. (sp?) i have a hard time getting over 160 degrees on the highway at cruise in this cold weather (40 degrees)
fuel cut has nothing to do with your af ratio being rich or lean. obviously something you wired in isnt correct, and why did you do this mod? The ecu will switch the pump from 9v to 12v when the conditions warrant.
you have no choice but to go full flow. im assuming you know the ge has no return port in pan and the filter head is completely different. stock cooler is designed as a bypass, it wont handle a full flow setup. Budget at LEAST $3-400 and expect another $1-200. I did it "cheap" initially and...
rx7 cooler sucks for fit. in front of the IC or behind it if yours isnt stock or the ac condenser is gone (still wont fit between the rad. support beams) And to the OP, there is no sense in upgrading the stock one unless going full flow
they can be tested while on the car, measure the hz of the ks signal. warm idle is 15-20hz and should rise accordingly. If you have a safc, that would tell you as well. Oh and unplugging it should remove said symptoms but keeps you in limp mode.
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