Search results

out of the oil filter or through the air filter?

for future reference get some fogging oil, most jetski/motorcycle shops should carry it. Pull the plugs and spray the snot out of the cylinders if its gona sit. Should help keep light moisture from rusting the cross hatching. i dont know in your case as id say its going to depend on how bad...

ill have to check the cross count. The ecu supplied 12.3v (exactly what the battery measured at) with the key in the on position and 13.84v. right after startup. heater circuit showed the resistance to be at 8 ohms when it was warm/hot to the touch. Resistance has increased more then 2X from...

ox to bat (-) stayed around .01-.02 v. when i unplugged the o2 sensor, it did nothing to change the af ratios or idle quality. i had to reset it so ill compare the idle vf to the o2 after a drive... is this heading in the right direction?

while starting it spikes, when idling it is steady

if you can see coolant/ water mix with the oil, id suspect you'd be VERY lucky to save the bearings. supracentral has stated that a measly 400ppm of coolant and oil mix will eat the bearings, and that if you can see it, its most likely in the 10,000 ppm range. a block tester will rule that out...

to add, ANY of the speeds posted should be by your self, or with someone that fully understands they might not survive. No car is without faults and failures, its a machine created/built up/maintained by humans.

baby brother? you serious? if he is in fact a small child that deserves an ass beating. Germans might have built it, but American owners have to maintain it....

fuel is 110 leaded? psi is what 27+? your power levels are imho above and beyond what most might get from regular 93, WAY above. awesome numbers HELL yes, would you daily it with the price you pay for fuel? dont mean to be a dick, i like solid pump gas numbers when i shoot for hp #'s...

^^ use a paper clip, LOL, or an insulated piece of solid wire.... even a pair of tweezers will work, although im not usre if you'll get a shock. on mine i have to play with it a bit to get the jumper to hold steady between the plugs....

if im not mistaken, isnt it the isc that controls the idle per the stock ecu?

how does keeping the cam in keep the bearings intact if there is already clearance for oil? the chemical bath doesnt penetrate like oil perhaps?

what else to bolt on the block while boring? cam tensioner, torq. plate, main studs with caps?

is there a way to limit oil psi with out lowering overall engine psi as well? shimmed pump guys....

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=23 here ya go;)

id leave it alone, there are perfect examples of drive ability issues caused by removing things like this on a daily basis. I know guys that have gone speed density have replaced this with a filter, but have another $800 to fork over? iirc jdub isnt using a piggy back and has a ffim too...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BR&P=8 thats for the e brake lever, go forward a page to make sure its within adjustment range (counting the clicks)

is this chatter like luggin the motor since its WAYYY out of the power band? think starting off in second at 900 rpms,

they make it through the tank?

:runaway: