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I used a laser thermo gun along with the aftermarket coolant gauge to verify the ohms-temp range that the chart specifys. Ill pull the sensor and boil it this evening to double check it. Ill test the circuit wiring as well and see what i find for resistance. WB is an AEM and cant be...

o2 is good. Tested per tsrm. i will check the dashpot, however it was allowing the desired 1 second close rate and the TP fully closes when i had the tb off. Noticed something odd. I started it up and let it idle for a few minutes in near freezing temps. Wideband starts at 12.0 and over...

nice work guys, i need to take a LONGGG break from sm, the list of To-do mods keeps growing...

I too have similar results. Warm weather= 16psi, near freezing= 18+ psi. I thought it was backwards but no fuel cut either. Doesnt "feel" any stronger though. im guessing the altitude difference has to be significant, but here it DFW the difference is only a few hundred feet MAX

damn thats some "top end" lube! id be asking them to at least buy new parts!

my bypassed clutch engagement switch is....;) i pull a fuse or two as well when it sits outside.

how unique is that?! Add a bit of water to that trans fluid and youd have some old fashion combustion chamber cleaner.

Hell yes, the supra ownes you when you start playing under the hood with anything other then a flat head screw driver :)

You can test the afm KS signal very easily.

That line is for the idle up control on the ps pump, Since the ps fluid is trans fluid it would stink horribly if burned. Wipe the compressor housing down with a CLEAN white rag/shirt and see what color it is. do what poodles suggested, for peace of mind if nothing else.

You can test the afm, it should idle at 15-20hz on a warm idle and increase with rpms. This is on the ks signal. Strip back a bit of wire a few inches from the connector and see what you get. Mine turned out to be the connector with very similar symptoms as yours, of course i already replaced...

that would be blow by. either your pcv is not handling the pressure in the crank or something else is incorrect with your rings/bores/pistons. Is it filled with oil or is there just a film and some other crude? that would be where your intercooler pipes get their oil from considering...

and now its 33 degrees :) got to love texas! back up to the 60's by tuesday

that manifold is gorgeous!

6,000 miles on sp61gt, full boost in the range of 3500-4000rpm and positive boost in the low 2300rpm range. Hits pretty hard at 16psi. 25psi on pump? race gas? meth?

you will not be able to tune closed loop operations, the safc is for WOT only. The ecu will take control of anything closed loop (idle and cruise). With a wideband and some open road you *could* tune yourself. Get a wideband that datalogs if you have the $$, well worth it.

get the stock one ported, then ceramic coated

only ones, i opened them up to 3/8 npt fittings. never thought of making it so the tb port can ONLY pull from the crank case, in theory that would be very effective. Any down sides?

a liquid filled gauge will read different readings at different temps. you have to vent it to get accurate readings. Assuming you didnt know this and reused the same gauge

perhaps ditch the stock tb orifice and plumb in a bit larger line with a check valve for more vac on the crank? Would this be of any benefit?