have it polished, i guess you were hoping to avoid removing the crank?
Any idea why it started knocking? what do the other bearings look like? sucks to hear about this on a fresh build, good luck!
i called aeromotive tech a few months back, they told me they dont build one that holds rest pressure. Jump the fuel pump at the diag. box and pinch the return line. If you hold the line shut while removing the jumper it will hold the pressure. That way you can at least verify the injectors...
nice find, ill be grabbing 4 new ones. :bigthumb:
how do you setup the gauge on the tie rod? if the gauge isnt to expensive i can pick one up and measure the new and old.
local parts store and dealer a $100 for one inner and $40-60 for the outers... Kind of pricey huh? :)
you need to search every single part and aspect of the car you want.
your post is a huge dream list that takes time and $$$$$$$$ to get there. Nothing you plan on doing is ground breaking (interesting huh :)) and has been done before. Good luck, its looking to be a long road a head!
i had to separate the inner and outer tie rods to replace the bellow. When they are connected there is no play up & down or side to side. No signs of a bad tie rod what so ever.
however after i separated them the inner flops around like a noodle. No resistance to movement from the joint...
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