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Agreed. Though for 25 bucks, he could do worse. Hell, I just spent 25 bucks on clips... :D

It's the country music dude. Seriously, turn that shit off. I'm not kidding. It'll take time for you to feel better. It hasn't been that long yet, hang in there. :) Hell, if Doward can make it through 2 months in the slammer... :D

I would think a lighter flywheel would tend to seemingly hurt your boost response if anything. My thinking is that your acceleration, if anything, would be slightly better, giving the turbo less time in any given gear to hit full boost. I really dont know, but my logic is pointing me in that...

Holy crap, IRACEMYCOPCAR. Incredibly good looking car you have there. :)

rbmotoring always has cool wheels. Many types I've never seen driving around in my state. Those TRD wheels look sick.

I had no idea helicoil kits were so widely available. DriftMotion also sells them. :)

Did you take any of the plugs out? If so, you probably dumped some oil into the cylinder and that would cause some smoking and a nasty misfire until the oil has burned off. That happened to me and I thought I messed something up by changing plugs, but it was just the oil. 20 mins of highway...

Like CK said, it's a little bolt with a round head on it. It is supposed to have a small plastic cap that covers the head of the bolt. If the plastic breaks off and you turn full lock, the bolt head hits a metal plate that the plastic would have hit and you get a nice crunch/clonk/snap sound. I...

I think it's safe to say you have not yet put a rod through the block. :) That'd be a big ole' explosion sound and then metal bits on the ground and oil everywhere and an engine that wouldn't run anywhere near normal. As for the crank, you won't know until you get it out. But you DO KNOW that...

Thanks for the contribution. I love seeing the different plates from other countries. Like mother always said: "If you don't have anything nice to say..." :D

If it's out of the car, I'd leave them in. But if you feel you can't lift it straight and you're worried about marring the holes in the head as Hommer said, maybe take them out.

Another vote for r/k. Sounds pretty bad. IIRC, one way to find out if it is r/k, you can pull the plug wires one at a time and see which one makes it stop. If none of the plug wires being pulled makes it stop, it's not rod knock. :dunno: I'd just pull that motor though, it sounds like bad rod...

Steering stops are the problem for the clonk/clank sound. Hope you didn't buy ball joints to try to solve that simple problem. All you need is new plastic caps from the dealer for 3 dollars or a dab of moly grease....

Holy crap the pics from the rally look incredible. Playing with the lines as one said would help and framing always makes it look more professional. But hell, I'd say slap your TM on those and start selling them because I think they look stunning. :)

I have driven my car like a race car on two or three occasions. I mean full throttle, full brakes, full throttle, full brakes... rinse and repeat for about 20-30 mins each occasion. My temp needle NEVER moved once. NOT AT ALL. It stayed just below halfway the ENTIRE TIME without an engine...

Yes. The turbo acts like a rolling wheel of sound blockades.

I've heard of this, but never thought it'd work very well at all. Interesting to hear that it does though. Someone with an N/A should buy one and try it! :)

Ok, cool. I'll try to get to it as soon as I get back from my weekend getaway. :) I'll start by just posting pics and basic measurements and then I'll see if I can remember how to do anything useful in Solidworks.

5 series wagon would be ballin. Import an M5 wagon and you're my god. :love:

What code? I got a code for the idle switch in the TPS. Took it apart and resoldered some contacts and such. Adjustment is very fine and precise, but if yours is acting like mine was, it will be impossible to get it within specs without rebuilding/replacing it.