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kg-cm, ft-lb, N-M :)

Well? Did you check injector plugs?

Can't make out the knock you speak of because the video is a constant massive rev. However, if the knock wasn't present before the timing adjustment, then it's something you touched. I suggest you check the cam gear bolts and tensioner bolt to verify they are indeed tight.

Stakes? Whatcha mean?

The ES kit does NOT have a replacement to the spherical bushing, I can gaurantee you that. This is a new rear oem bushing: And this is a new oem rear spherical bushing. Wanna make sure you're talking about the right part.

LOL!- I've also wondered about this- for YEARS! 89JDM7M- I see your parts list- brakes and flywheel- are you looking for front calipers and stock flywheel? I have these. Fr. calipers were rebuilt 2yrs ago, and the flywheel looks fine(from a motor I bought.) LMK if these would help you. I'm...

Argh. I really wanna know if switching the two injector plugs corrects your issue.

Whichever way you need to turn the CPS's case, that means you need to install the cps shaft(gear) a tooth in the opposite direction.

Nice. Don't feel bad- you have a running, painted car. I've spent more than that already on suspension and engine parts alone, and it doesn't run, isn't painted yet, and still needs the interior done. PS- Do you have a closeup pic of your turbo elbow installed?

Dealer, or post a 'part wanted' ad in the parts forum.

So, did you verify that you reinstalled the correct injector clips to the corrent injectors?

Trade Lex AFM for a stock unit. You won't need either once you go with the MAFT Pro. This would be a good start, though with the intake you have(no vac lines connected, and an improper PCV routing), you'll probably still have a few driveability issues to iron out. PS- Can't tell from the engine...

18 ft-lbs. Online TSRM, page EM-63.

To verify- Nothing 'shorts' out now, right? All the electricals stay on as they should?

from the video, it appears that he is not even reaching redline.

It gets cold in TX, though I see why one would think it stays warmer, being in the southern US. I think your starting issues are coincidental timing. I have always found that electrical issues are aggravated by Colder temperatures. I hope you get it fixed. Replacing each cable should be no more...

Yup. After seeing that vid, i stick with my above suggestions. You either have bad contact on one of the terminals to the battery, or one of The cables to the block/starter, or bad cables altogether.

Well, I don't mean just the terminals, I mean the cables themselves as well. As for testing, I believe it's a voltage drop test that you need to try: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qfaLy-DS3w

Well, I WOULD have gotten a rush from it, but you called me out on it, and now I feel dead inside. Actually, I use sarcasm to mask frustration. I wanted to hear that you checked what was asked of you, and that it helped. I get a rush from THAT. I don't know what you were trying to say here-...

Make sure that both cables are tight where they connect to: The + cable at the starter, and the - cable at the block. It was already suggested, but you should replace both if they are the originals. They do go bad, and your problem sounds exactly like an intermittent loss of connection that...