the wastegate is electronically controlled by a %. The more %, the more the boost solenoid opens and closes, this ultimately decides the PSI levels with Greddy Profec B spec II's
I found on a few of other websites where drivers PSI goes up with lower temps...just not sure how much is normal
hospital bills > cost of PS3
on another note, i doubt a 6'6" 275lb man could be a Navy Seal, last i checked, they were pretty big into Stealth strategies and lots of speed
^regardless of if you didn't care about the turbo, wouldn't you have run the risk of it blowing in a million pieces and screwing up your engine? Or would most of the pieces get caught by the IC. I have no idea, i've never blown a turbo.
^agreed, check connectivity of the AFM and whether its even any good. Try a friends and see if the code goes away.
on a side note: I always thought you should worry about lower numbered codes first, is this the only exception?
i did it about the same way you describe OP, I avoided High RPMs early on as well. Whats the best method vs running the hell out of it i don't know for sure
Edit: keep in mind this is a stock CT in excellent condition
Just wondering about how much boost levels should change depending on temperatures. I tuned my car in hot weather, probably 80's to 90's weather and humid (was done in Philly area PA, don't know altitude). I've noticed as its gotten...
playing the odds here....doubtful it has anything to do with a bad AFM unless he left it unplugged or something in which he wouldn't really be able to drive anywhere
oh lol, i thought you meant she would do the picture :biglaugh:
IDEA: Dumb and Dumber.....rent the movie....screen shot of Mary with the headlights.....job done
^lower your FP and get out of the 20's
For a place to start my part thottles are always in the +5 to +17 range while 70+% throttle is into the -10 to -18 range with 550cc injectors and 38PSI. Just take note the large difference in the way the stock ECU reacts with full vs. part throttle...
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