]Just like the title suggests I have some headlight anomalies.
Here's the problem.
When I turn my headlights on, I get all appropriate exterior lights, except my low-beam headlights. When I switch to hi-beams they work fine.
I checked fuses and relays...all OK.
As a last resort...
I'm reading this thread and the other thread that's linked to this one.
I don't know either one of these guys but...
PUHLEEEEEEEEEEEZE!
I have seen enough of this kind of thing to know when I smell bullshit, oh, and a low-life thief.
92Turbo4life you are lucky it's not my car...
Does anyone have a cost comparison between these leather "kits" and say a good quality upholstery shop?
I think a good qualified shop might do a better job of it. I've never seen (in person) one of these do it yourself leather interiors, but I would imagine that it's only going to look as...
Plexiglass (while light in weight) is shit for street cars. It scratches easily, usually looks warped, (even when new) and has a tendency to crack or turn into dust with time, vibration and sun.
Find a junker with good rear glass and CAREFULLY remove it. Factory glass as I recall (if you can...
I've run and worked at more than a couple of body shops (custom and production) and this quote by Adjuster is the single most important thing about a paint job.
If I may paraphrase and draw a conclusion...i.e.
Cheap paint looks better on a properly prepped surface than expensive paint...
No matter how much time, money and effort I put into it, somewhere in the back of my head, hidden under many layers of denial, I know it will never be done.
Or maybe that's the best thing about my Supra.
Oh Man!!!
I pulled the driveshaft and would you believe the rear half (where it's a tube bonded inside another tube) is out by approximately 90 degrees.:aigo:
I never would have thought of that!
I'll post some pic's later.
Hope this cures it.
Same with me...new tires (balanced on the car) and all my suspension components are new or "as new". Just had it aligned (4wheel). I am working on the driveshaft right now (just took a break to check my favorite website).
I'll post up as soon as I have the 411. I hope this fixes it cause...
I have a couple of drive shafts sitting around (along with a couple of everything else), If I join two halfs (in phase) of two seperate driveshafts to get a good one, would it need to be balanced?
I looked at my driveshaft and it looks like IJ is right...it appears to have slipped where the rear half of the drive shaft is "bonded".
How the hell did I do this? I recently (two weeks ago) swapped in a transmission I rebuilt. I can only assume I did it then. I've had the motor and trans...
I will try this right away and post back. When you say "phasing issue", I assume you mean the two shafts that make up the propeller are "out of phase". I'm not really clear on exactly what that means and how it would exactly manifest itself or how to deal with it. Maybe you could set me...
I'll check that out.
LMAO
Funny you should say that, because as it happens, I almost never do....so I'm not really sure when I picked up this vibration.
Anyone got any ideas why it's worse with the wheels off?
At least I didn't crawl under it while my girlfriend brought it up to sixty (I was considering it).
How much play is acceptable in the center carrier bearing? There is very little (almost nothing) in mine.
Wouldn't the center carrier bearing be vibing all the time? I am only getting this...
I've had the rear tires up in the air and it didn't look like anything was obviously boncing around when I brought it up to 60mph with the wheels up on jackstands.
Any methods to isolate this vibration?
Any ideas on why it's worse when I took the rear wheels off?
I have a speed sensitive vibration at around 60mph, it doesn't matter if your coasting, accelerating, in neutral, or in gear. It's a vibration you can feel through the bottom of the seat and it's bad enough to make the rear view mirror totally blurry. Any other speed and the car is totally...
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