Search results

soft? maybe you're just not used to it. If the master or slave is bad it will have a bleed effect like a brake master and lose its pressure the longer you hold your clutch pedal, or just not work at all. If it shifts fine and releases the clutch fine i wouldn't worry.

Would like this in a tech section to avoid BS answers but not sure where to put it. I know theoretically gasoline has a very low freezing point, somewhere in the -90+*F range from what i've read. However, with todays additives and such especially water, at what point does the temperature...

already removed... what an idiot

^results... and again, based on what you've been saying....you're low on fluid. Put your car on a STEEP hill, rad side on the upslope and let the engine run. Air should bubble out. Do this as cold as possible to start.

...if you hear air....then it probably is....its not that hard to check.

well....the obvious thing to check here is fluid level after that, replace T-stat

:3d_frown: GL ever properly setting your timing

If you have an old coolant line this is a MAJOR PITA. I find it much easier to just remove the ISC bolts and the easiest to reach coolant line to get it out of the way.

:nono: way excessive. You should not have to mess with the timing at all for this code. OP, i would strongly advise against this method.

you are not within the proper range for your TPS, regardless of what your meter and TSRM says. If you would've followed my directions in the first place this wouldn't have happened.

^this is a good point unless you get into some more complex setups with some type of programmable controller

i used a small rachet/extension/1/4"/phillips head combo and just snug the bottom one. i tighten the top much more since i can't the bottom that much with it being to tight to get at.

this is MUCH more hassle then its worth. However your best way to measure the force is just to remove the slave and press the fork clutch with a force meter or use and type of spring/ruler device and see how much the spring stretches.

Simple and plain the easiest way to setup the TPS: 1. install the TPS with the screws loose enough to rotate the TPS 2. Bridge the Diagnosis terminals like you'd check for codes 3. Rotate the TPS in very small increments until code 5-1 stops flashing (if it is at all) 4. tighten screws

^i've never heard of a bad wrist pin period

i expect pictures of any carnage....

^+1

I could be wrong but i have heard the stock FI's are a bit noisy. Though the cam/valves will ALWAYS have a tick to them. Freshly built or not.

I haven't heard from him lately....is it still running on that power?? :evil2:

^he will find out eventually...