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Who did the body work? Looks great, just not my style.

If all the brakes spin freely then when you put wheels on those should spin freely too.. so you're either not trying hard enough or hitting something.. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

Yes. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

Cut down the -10 hose and put the 90 at the pan, rather than the turbo. Should be a fairly straight shot once you have the hose cut down. Also, you're going to have to drop the pan before drilling and welding for the bung.

Then can you give me a hint as to where to look? You said something about the open DP. I don't think that could cause this.. But I could be wrong.

I could understand if it was a few gurgles. But this is seriously like a gunshot. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

Anybody have any ideas to this? I find it hard to believe that Toyota's flagship gt car afterfires normally... Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

Well I fixed the air leak, and it still does it. although it seems to happen less often.

I think I may have found the problem. The EGR pipe that goes to the plenum was not connected to the EGR. Granted, the EGR isn't hooked up either but that's just a giant un-metered air leak. I have yet to drive it after fixing this, but I have a feeling this was my problem.

Afterfire. Sorry for the confusion. And what would an open dp have to do with it?

No I don't have a wideband.. But I mean I could understand a little gurgle or two.. But this is like I just shot a rifle. And for the record I'm running open DP WITH the factory cat in the DP.

The heater wires will be black, polarity doesnt matter. Connect the signal wire (mine was blue) to the signal wire in the harness (will be shielded) then connect the two heater wires to the other two wires in the harness (mine were pink)

So there's one fault with the GTE swap so far. It likes to backfire inbetween shifts. I thought it would be the TPS out of adjustment, so I pulled the codes, no 51. Ohmed out the TPS, with no shim there was resistance, same with a .5mm shim, and then infinite with the .9mm shim. I double and...

The GTE electronics are designed to handle boost.. N/A is not. The answer is obvious.

So I decided to just ditch the idea of a second car and focus on the Supra. So anyway, there's one fault with the GTE swap so far. It likes to backfire inbetween shifts. I thought it would be the TPS out of adjustment, so I pulled the codes, no 51. Ohmed out the TPS, with no shim there was...

We have some really bad roads here and I've only once had a problem, and it was just an awkward speed bump. Like they raised the road up (like they would do for a speed hump) and then put a speed bump on top of it.. lol.

When you drive around in 100+ degree heat with the windows down and the stereo off (keep in mind, amazing A/C and awesome sounding stereo) JUST to hear the turbo spool better.

Look at the firewall above the clutch pedal.. Its right there. And as for the parking light.. Theres a screw on the side of the light. Take that out and then IIRC you sort of pivot the light out.

Code 42 comes from the speedometer speed sensor I'm pretty sure. My supra was a swapped N/A (no ABS) to 7M-GTE, no codes. AFAIK, AC shouldn't throw a code unless you hit the button.

You never said if the unis were inline or not. All of them should be in the same position.