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No cooler here and whenever I top up the power steering fluid (small leak) the fluid is always burnt.. and I don't even do that hard of driving.. maybe a few short pulls. And some quick corners but it shouldn't heat up the system that much.. a power steering cooler should have been factory...

Hooked them up. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

I was looking forward to seeing your Supra run the Diablo

So if the factory head bolts are plenty strong, and the head can't take that much force.. Why would somebody even consider buying ARP head bolts? Not studs. I know the advantage to studs. Is there any advantage to ARP bolts over factory bolts though?

I had brand new Toyota seals that I put on my injectors and I ended up tearing an o ring. Pretty easy to do actually.

Well I haven't gotten around to disconnecting the sender. But I did take the cluster out and ohm out the gauge. and it specced in at ~40 ohms, which I would assume is close enough. Since I had the cluster out though, I decided I would do the tach resistor swap so it works (N/A -> GTE swap) and...

I've already noticed the lack of response time. lol How do you make the stock gauge more accurate? and would you be able to do the same with the stock coolant temp gauge?

I'll disconnect the sender tonight and see if it still spikes. I don't know why I didn't think of that. Thanks Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

Lines fail too.. and I find Electrics fairly easy. Just need a little help. Like now lol Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

And then what if it springs a leak? 180*+ oil all over the cabin. Sounds like fun to me. Besides. I hate when the factory gauges don't work, and then people throw aftermarket gauges on it. I don't care how inaccurate the factory gauges are, I want them to work too lol Sent from my ADR6425LVW...

Well the thing is, it only spikes intermittently. So if that's a short in the wire between the sending unit and gauge then throwing a new gauge on it because it fails the tsrm tests means that gauge would be ruined with a quickness. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

Okay, so shortly after my rebuild, I noticed an odd quirk. Almost exclusively when I drive on the highway, I notice my oil pressure shoot sky high. Pegging the gauge. I know this is obviously not an accurate reading... Since the relief valve would be at ~80 psi and the filter would have blown up...

One of the biggest things I can think of is the intake manifold. The supra has ACIS and the cressida one does not. Once you change that the vacuum system is changed as well. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

As far as sensors go that's it.

I don't think it looks that bad. Turbo a duct just looks better. :p Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

Makes me wonder if its possible to do something like that to a 7m Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

Well I'd say you definitely got your moneys worth out of it lol Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

Looks like a cut up stock bumper with a lip. It almost looks like a bondoed lip but idk for sure. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2

Probably went a little something like this.. "Well that hose requires you to dissasemble pretty much the entire engine, and it's just simpler with the engine out of the car.. And this engine is getting tired.. So I may as well just get a new one."

How many miles were on the chassis?