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"sweeping" @ idle is normal as idle is closed loop....albeit slower than cruise. as always, mkiiitech.com has your answer: MAFT pro wiring: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=641&start=15 Vf logging info on p.3: Vf info: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=593

nice. don't know what to tell ya- on the few car's i've swapped 'em you always end up w/extra wind noise. my guess is the rubber part is conformed to the <'88 side mirror shape.....

no, it's not. it's what the ECU is doing to the base fuel calulation. as always, the info is on MKIIItech.com: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=593 the point is there really isn't much you can do to stop the ECU from achieving stoich in it's preset ranges (cruise, idle)...

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-006&Category_Code=GRT

>70% TPS and above 3500 RPM or so. the stock ECU is doing the oscillating. yup, stoich for gas is 14.7. nope, you should NEVER tune to that @ WOT. 14.7 is the "ideal" ratio.....i.e. in a perfect world. the only time you'll see that AFR is during cruise and idle. forced induction cars...

www.4cefed.com

while the mounting brackets may look the same, they're not. you'll have more wind noise w/the '89+ mirrors on <'88 brackets.

take a look @ the manual, p. 22, it outlines what all the AFR tracking parameters do....

w/a stock FW.....

oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooohhhh yeah. the jump right before the summit of brockway.....i was there a few times back when they used to allow spectators on the rally stages. i saw cars fly 30+ feet off that one....it was insane.

i don't think the problem is the disc....:3d_frown:

heh. i love it....let's cheap out on FUEL! next, let's save $$ by using a used honduh fuel pump! heck, why not just save $$ by running 87 octane gas? it's all the same, right? :3d_frown:

or get it straight from the source: www.gaugepods.com

geez. that is quite small.....i can't imagine that will allow for enough flow @ all. ATP has a few restrictors, looks to be a .060" hole for T series and .035" hole for GT series: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-OIL-022&Category_Code=OIL...

the cheapest/easiest thing to do is have someone weld on some angle iron and drill a hole in it....

the stock tach (along with all other stock gauges) shouldn't be used for any sort of accurate measurement....especially at the limits of their range.

'89+ ECUs must be hand modified if you want to break out the HAC signal. at some point i'll put together a nice writeup, but it's definitely not for the faint of heart/electronically declined.

as always, i recommend deciding on your goals and then planning on how to get there....turbo choice should be driven by max power and powerband goals.

funny- i was there from '96-'00. ;) IMNSHO, the road to and around copper harbor is probably the best ever....i've laid a lot of rubber up there....and even caught air. man i miss it....i haven't been up there in like 2 yrs? maybe more...

IIRC they're a techtom dealer....but i doubt they can do it unless they have remaining stock of the daughterboards. last i heard techtom was out of 'em... EDIT: they ARE a techtom dealer. which makes it legit....but the daughterboard shortage still applies.