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if all your books are modern, then i would have to disagree. everything that i have says that it's a fixed timing table and the KS are just there to remove timing in the event of knock. you have to remember the 7M TCCS was designed in the EARLY '80s, the processing power to do active spark...

got some proof that active timing advance is used in the 7M ECU? most modern ECUs do this, but i find it hard to believe the 7M ECU does....

they're probably referencing autometer's dual pod: 23685

shims shoot out.....if you get a bucket to shoot out, i'd pay to see it. ;)

best timing? i guess it depends on your goals and what fuel you will be running. ideally, you'd want to run as much advance as you can without knocking. yup, sounds like your gas is rated only by the RON number. here in the US it is (RON+MON)/2.

nope, the flange kits just have the flange....try an industrial supply company, they should have a snap ring of the proper size.

don't waste your $$. if you don't need higher octane, don't run it. it only makes your wallet lighter and probably is making your car slower.

http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=814 think of the MAFT gen 2 as a "dumbed down" MAFT pro. they're virtually the same, the MAFT pro's ability to do boost control and speed/density being the big difference. while i don't have all the answers, here's some: 1. i dunno. 2...

werd.

the problem w/any jap cage is that it is NOT legal for anything in the US....so there's no point (other than riceitude)....

eh. 4 degrees of advance over stock is not a whole lot....

back in my NA days i ran 16 degrees of advance....really woke the car up. just be sure to run good gas....

the stock hood isn't even that heavy....so you'll lose maybe 10-15 lbs....woooooooooooooooooooooo.

heh. i was goin to say....there's probably like 4 total supras in that area....including those who don't care about what car they drive. long live the great white north! ;) (i grew up in eau claire, WI)

it is quite nice....and real leather too. looks fantastic when you oil it up....

there is no reason to have drilled rotors, other than looks. by buying cheapo drilled rotors, all you're doing is inviting cracking or other failure. cheap pads suck. get something more aggressive. or if you want to cheap out, just hit up your local autoparts store and get a set w/lifetime...

absolutely no differences between NA and turbo heads- a 7M head is a 7M head. there are different castings of the head: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=167

sounds like you either forgot to hook up the NB output to the ECU or the PLX's WB output is wrong.....scale it to match the "normal" NB output....

wow. that's horrendous. get it and take LOTS of pix.