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don't remove the p/s tank, just move it outta the way, much cleaner that way, if you spill any pour petrol on it asap! (petrol mixes with the oil and it will wipe right up stain free on concrete) you can remove the hose on car (i've done it!) use needle nose plyers on the spring clips. i...

was the motor at operating temp? if the exhaust is still cold then of course its going to steam! like if you breath hot air on a cold day :) first start paranoia is normal! :)

hi 5 for toyota interchangeable parts! i got my transmission mount that was sold as a "4runner trans mount" bolted up perfect! as for the starter ill second it

real supra's are RHD...not converted to LHD to be sold elsewhere *snap* this threads kinda lost its relevance...

i sure as hell wouldn't do it. Efficiency range is different, fuel map won't suit, AFR's will most likely be wrong. you need to adjust the fuel map, plus with the stock ecu and fuel cut the 60-1 won't even see its efficiency island and will end up slower than a stock ct26

its not that bad, you need to remove accordion hose, p/s tank and the bracket that holds it on, from there you MAY need to turn the spring clips. you will probbly need to bend the alloy plate back as'well to get to it. here's a few pictures i have that may give you a better idea

you obviously applied it wrong, you dont need much and you spread it thin, and keep the silicon to the outter half of the ajoining surface same as the sump pan, i do the bolts up finger tight, then wait a few hours before torquing, i did it to every surface on my block and have had 0 leaks.. the...

i don't know about where your from but here if we flush the toilet it usually goes 1 way, to go the "wrong way" is to imply that you had a turd shot out of the toilet at you...

silicon peels off easy., and as a result the paper gasket does not get caked on and is also easy to remove. everyone has their own preference. i prefer not to have to reseal things twice in the first place.

yeah its a good idea, use the automotive sensor safe stuff in case any travels up to the sensors (the stuff is orange in colour) i usually use my finger to spread it thin you don't need heaps, i used it on a lot of paper gaskets and it helps seal lots especially if the surfaces haven't been...

Seems to be a common problem with these cars as they get older :)

i doubt its the uni's then, its more of a clunk when for example your in second decelerating (engine is putting resistance on the drive-line) then you apply throttle and begin to accelerate and then resistance shifts and the drive-line puts resistance on the motor. (if that makes sense)

yeah that's what i thought my car was a single pegger then had a lsd fitted so i'm betting they skipped checking the lash and just reused the shims. uni joins wouldn't cause a clunk would they?

interesting! ill have to check mine, whats a common cause for clunking in the driveline? (i've fitted a new centre bearing as it was worn)

i hate you that is such a clean cheap car, love the colour!! if only it was a manual! what i find strange is it has a MA71 front end and MA70 rear end (tail lights)

could be, but he says the starter clicks :) could be a relay click or the solenoid in the starter trying to engage in either case shouldn't happen if the alarm is wired correctly and preventing the car from cranking i still say likely cause is the starter trigger wire :) i hope he reads this =/

as others have said, sounds like a boost leak did you ground the correct pins to read the error codes?

It's online go forth and RTM. the caps do go back in a particular order, luckily for you the caps are numbered! so even if you mix them up you can find the right way to put them on!

he said that his motor isn't actually spinning which indicates a issue with the starting system not the ignition system :)

ask a useless question, get a useless answer