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xt26 uses a 4 bolt square "CT" flange T3 is a rectangle flange and T4 is a bigger version of the T3 flange. the dump flange on the CT26 is a 4 bolt and it has a 3" inducer. apart from that its water cooled. maybe some else can fill in the turbine specs?

i'll do it.. only problem is you might have to fly me up from Australia.. ;)

yaay for global warming. i can hardly talk i welded a cat shell over my 3" test pipe

How did it taste? i bet like chicken with metal flakes! so the starter clicks but wont engage? sounds like a trigger wire attenuation issue to me, you may need to do the starter relay mod, same thing happened to me. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76403 So here's what to do...

sounds like blowby, could be from piston rings or as mentioned above, you'll find oil in your accordion pipe i bet and Weak wastegate spring, happens as they get older my ct26 does the same thing! try shimming your wastegate, the aim is to put more pressure on the flapper. mine would boost to...

just be glad your motor is non interference :) this is true a washer could have broken loose, they arn't very thick but the belt should have a common point it should run true to, unless something wasn't installed correctly and caused it to wander. i hope he's not serious about reusing it...

you can clearly see where the timing belt is being "shaved" are you sure who ever rebuilt the motor A) used thread locker on the bolt for the oil pump & torqued it to spec? B) installed the crank drive gear correctly? c) followed the TSRM procedure for installing a timing belt and checking...

Did you use the oil cooler return fitting or make your own? I'm going to guess that with -10 you'd need to make a new fitting, did you remove the sump and drill/weld it properly?

like i said a 90deg fitting would solve your issue. even a 45deg fitting might do the trick

+1 if you can't ensure a perfect surface you shouldn't fit a MHG,

your referring to the return hose for the turbo, it has 2x 12mm nuts on the flange plate, and there is a stud in the block for each nut. its fairly accessible if you remove the dump pipe the feed like is a single bolt that is 17mm and oil passes through the bolt into the feed line (return is the...

dude, get a speed flow 90deg fitting or similar and run it up? if you decide to drain into the sump make sure that it is ABOVE the oil level. I'm not sure the return line for the oil cooler actually is much above the resting oil level. remove the fitting with a full sump and find out :) when...

another question! last thing to take care of is the Ignition system. i've noticed the stock igniter is a multiplexing unit IGT - Trigger to fire spark IGF - Return signal (not important) IGdA - coil multiplexing signal IGdB - coil multiplexing signal so the way it toggles coil 1 = 00, coil 2...

could always be a oil leak inside the gearbox, this destroyed one of my clutches. if its a R154 pull off the inspection plate and take a look inside the bell housing... should be pretty obvious.

thats cool :) im going to match the wire colour on the pin to the actual sensors and install a full loom. The Idle valve... I'm assuming in normal operation battery voltage is applied to B1 + B2? and the S1-4 connected to the coils 1-4? other things i need to sort out (but not crucial for...

cheers :) VC is labled "AIR FLOW METER THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR" thats what confused me :) i think that's everything sorted does the fuel pump system run a - or + trigger signal? im thinking about redoing the wiring for the fuel pump according to my new ecu..

Cheers :) where is the common 5v rail? cant seem to find it in any wiring diagrams...

so it should still crank with no ecu present? i need to pull the stock ecu out and see what still works i guess. Thanks for all the help guys, its been very useful

So i should be using VTA as the sensor signal? does the ecu act as a immobilizer? i see that the ecu has the following inputs/outputs STA - STARTER SWITCH IG SW - IGNITION SWITCH if i wished to bypass this could i connect the wire IG SW to STA? i've got a relay connected to the trigger wire...

on a further note can someone please clear up the TPS signal as well? i know the 7m runs a 4 wire TPS, my EMS uses a 3 wire setup, my question is which wire do i use as TPS signal? IDL - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR VTA - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR