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you sir are a legend :) my EMS has the following "trigger inputs" A Ground B Trigger C Ground D Ground E Home F +12v I'm working under the assumption that A,C,D are connected to sensor grounds (G-)? F is a power supply. which leaves trigger and home would i be correct in...

Hey guys, i've done a bit of searching but came up empty handed, if ive missed something please point me in the right direction. working out the wiring for my new EMS (standalone) ive got most of it nutted out except the CPS has got me a little confused and the TSRM isn't the best at...

my 88.10 block has them eng no round 110,000? it has a 7m crank and is 89+ spec my early 7mgte block sitting under my house has no squirters, and a 6m crank, its engine number 1100 something, i'm sure the squirters help cool the pistons and reduce the chance of detonation on stock cast...

what exhaust/dp/cat do you have fitted? (you didn't list it) did the dyno operator have much to say?

it pays to read all posts before hitting the reply button :P

:) looks awesome!! had it on the dyno? how many horsies does it pull?

now please correct me if im wrong but there is a hatch in the boot you remove to get direct access to the fuel pump...? i've never removed the pump but i have popped the cap off to take a squiz.

holds more boost until round 5000rpm where it drops back to 5.8psi goes a HELL of alot harder too. ill fit a new dump pipe and check the result.. and hopefully get it dyno tuned with a new ecu as well soon

coolant is NOT a replacement for motor oil... "rod knock" occours due to worn bearings (WELL UNDER SIZED) the crank becomes un balanced and the rods begin to do all kinds of crazy things until they snap. when they snap it results in massive engine damage which means you can throw the block away...

they're was no preload on the actuator and had around 2-3mm of play in it, i assume this is not normal, i used 3x 1mm washers to preload up the actuator, hopefully this will give me a positive result, i'm going to test run it soon.

anyone know what it means by xxmm from the retainer end? im unsure what the retainer end actually is, ive got the box out and apart just wondering if anyone's replaced this seal, i didn't RTFM the first time and it leaked hardcore and ruined my clutch.. i saved my clutch the 2nd time.. but...

i thought i might put 8 washers 1 side and 4 the other... my question was are there supposed to be any from factory or direct contact from the actuator plate to the turbo compressor housing?, i know how to shim the waste gate as well.

quick question, are any washers supposed to separate the waste gate and the actuator plate? i found 1 washer in there maybe the previous owner did it?

some say 14psi, some say 18psi.. best way is to take it to the dyno, and gradually step up the boost with a afr probe in the exhaust rather than listen to someone on the internet who usually has no hard proof of what they're claiming or done any testing that they can yield results from. :)...

are any washers supposed to be there as per stock? shimming it would give it a little more tension, sounds like something to try, i plan on fitting a GT35R but we all know they're not cheap and i need to get a new ecu fitted before i think about putting a turbo that big on. ill try a pressure...

would testing it with a air compressor really do me any good? as i know it opens but i kinda need it to stay open.. id really like to know where to get a replacement actuator that wont cost me a arm and a leg.

one way to find out... someone buy one :P

hey, so ive just rebuilt my 7m, its going good, feeling smooth and its responsive my mods are, BC valve springs 3" cat back exhaust FMIC with hard pipes electronic closed loop boost controller engine balanced anyway my boost drops with higher rpm under WOT, the stock dump elbow looks...

id be interested to see if its any good

mine looked pretty good when i pulled mine down :)