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The valve body is the most important part. Toyota tries to hide that your trans is shifting by slipping the clutch packs. This is what wears the trans down. Besides launching on slicks. You need the valve body mod to remove the slipping. Slipping eases engagement from one gear to the...

I will do it for $85.00/hr.

I am impressed with Toyota engineering and the Lexus replica from Suprasport. You can't even tell it is there, except the housing is not dirty and bigger. No difference in drivability at all. It is almost like having a Ford hot wire sensor from Hitachi.

Besttrans was running a heavy duty Hydromatic.

Pull codes. Over time, electrical switches, especially those in a steering wheel simply wear out. The metal contacts are worn down and rub off. You could have a different problem, which is why you must pull codes.

All headgasket jobs whether you have a stock style composite or MHG, require work. Both the head and block must be flat. The composite is very forgiving, I won't lie. The MHG is not. On top of that, the MHG must also be smooth as pointed out above.

Mine came black from Toyota.

I just recently installed my Lexus replica from SupraSport.com, and 550's from RC. My car runs exactly as though I had not done the mod. But my car runs perfect anyway, so if you have a problem now, you will have a problem when you are done.

Probably 10mm, which would be very close to 3/8.

Well, you have no pickup, but the CPS itself might still work. Or maybe the gap is wrong. But I would think about wiring first.

There is an existing patent. It came up on google also. I had read(not on the internet) about the Coates engine sometime ago. I don't know how old it is, or new, depending on you you look at it.

Yep, resizing the rod is making it round again. You need to have the rods rebuilt on a rebuild anyway. They will also make sure it is straight. Which it isn't after 150,000 mile of boost and abuse.

Yeah, that gets stripped off as part of the PDI, when cars arrive at the dealer. Kind of like foam packaging.

I don't remember who it was that I was reading about and spherical valves. Sounds like the same thing. Google is just too good. http://www.coatesengine.com/technology.html He spun a factory Ford 5.0 up to 10,000 rpm some years back. He used that engine because it is a big bore, short...

Engines 101. The rod is the first thing to go.

There is a whole section to just the JZ you know.

What if you have a bad starter? With your arms, or a two foot breaker bar? , It only takes about 40-50 lbs of turning torque to rotate a crank with pistons. Adding valvetrain makes it much harder. When that happens, you lose compression and it is usually very easy to turn over.

I suggest you go with stock. It works very well, and costs very little in the horsepower department.

Don't forget stroke length. You assume nobody has a Celica Supra. :biglaugh:

The one it came with.