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http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/ http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=032 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=036

Would it be better to filter just before the engine, even if it is a full flow? IJ, Adjuster? I think it should be filtered right before going into the engine, but his question has me thinking.

The KISS method is not used nearly enough. Good plan. Make it strong and reliable, and it will go 200,000 miles like stock Toyotas. 11's on upgraded CT will not be easy with an IRS and heavy car.

A blow off valve, or stock bypass valve? Where was it blown off? If you have a massive vacuum leak, and not ported vacuum, it can stop you from starting. I am assuming your engine cranks over.

So this means you are in A/C class?

Yeah, you need a big upgrade in cooling, seperate from the radiator if you use a torque converter with a higher stall speed.

Just to make sure, does the engine crank over?

Where did you spray it?

Those dont' hold the head on.

For future refrence, that is the right side of the car. It is always listed from the driver perspective. The coolant will go down, and across. Will it go as well across the core as the cross flow? Probably not. Just make sure everything is up to snuff.

Sounds like BS to me.

Gotcha. :biglaugh: And there I was going to ask, "what, no toilet paper?". A coolant flush is a part of the scheduled services. As often as 15,000 miles from what I remember. It has been 4 years since I had a Toyota shirt on at work. Nice work JJ.

Real nice find. I like them. I don't think the stock drivetrain is rated for real high horsepower, be careful.

I think those are airflow meter codes. I would have to get my book out. It has to be plugged in to work right. There is no hurry, don't be fast. Do it right. The temp sensor is inside the airflow meter. Belts aren't adjusted right. You might have an exhaust manifold leak, depending on what...

Your experience and knowledge on theory is appreciated and always welcome. Do continue. This bolt was crossed. The reason I think that is the light damage on the blot also. Maybe not though. Since budget suppliers couldn't get a 10695 fast enough, I pieced it together myself. Now I wonder if...

Make sure the pressure and return lines are not mixed up on the rack. Don't forget to see if you installed a belt.

The wastegate is mechanical, and hitting fuel cut doesn't not necessarily affect boost. An engine miss should slow it down, but with your wastegate shimmed, it might stay shut longer, just as it is. Pulling the EFI fuse does not fix broken cars.

Idle speed isn't adjustable. But it is "adjusted" by having TPS out of adjustment, timing, dash pot adjusted too far out, that is about all I can think of.

The GTE has an extra steel and friction, larger piston to hold, and that is about it. The later JZA80 went with a little bit more yet.