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That is good advice. Assuming his cables are actually hooked up correctly and assuming he actually means this. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=036

I know you the engine will run with a manual trans and auto ECU. But you should use the manual ECU. The automatic ECU is looking for range selection for most accurate tables.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=CO&P=2

Pick up a 3640 lb MA70 and you can see them. Mine has one in front, one in back, and the stock clutch assembly. For the O.P,if you want maximum cooling, instead of a range that ECU is set to see, hardwire a toggle switch in lieu of temp sensors. Don't forget to turn them on when you...

Why do you want to hardwire the switch? Or are you talking about the clutch start switch on a manual trans car?

And this answer is straight from the manual. The best thing to do is is remove, disassemble and inspect for damage.

And gone in 4th right? That is direct, and you have no load on the input bearing. A chipped gear on that same input shaft would also make your noise. Well, if you disengage the clutch, that is pressing in the pedal, you are no longer turning the input shaft of the transmission. There should...

The car won't run in that condition.

If removing and plugging in fuel injection fuses helped, you could have a corroded fuse box. I saw that once in the rust belt. You simply rubbed some off giving you a connection. Come back with codes as suggested.

Why do you want to cut the connector off? If you have to change the sensor, you will have to recrimp and solder everything. Picture? I assume the sensor is fitting in the hole, but the plugs don't match. I would get a new sensor, but that is just me.

Scaling. Look at the numbers on the scale. Put them the same, and it does cross at 5252.

I know this is old, but I will comment because it isn't quite true. Never do anything with E2, but be sure the sensors are hooked up to it are not interfered with to the computer. Do not ground it. E2 is a clean ground. Meaning filtered through the computer, so that it is really at 0V. Don't...

Are you familiar with Lextreme.com? They have a bunch of info about 1UZ swaps and builds. I like the idea. I don't think I would do anything that involved.

Toyota on convential theory. Page 4 of 15. http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h1.pdf

Even the old HKS sport turbo with the smaller exhaust pulled much harder to redline than a CT26. You can see the dyno sheets here and there around the web.

Do you understand relay circuits? Don't get insulted if I ask questions, I don't know where you stand. The switch completes the circuit for the control side of the relay. The switch will die if you hard wire it. That is excessive current. Unless you wired the switch to the ground side...

It doesn't actually matter where you get power to activate the relay. It is low current, and won't blow fuses. Somewhere, he spliced high current to a low current circuit.

I am digging the blue powder coat. Really. And I don't like things like that. If I could get a color done that was really rich looking and matched the red, but not quite so dramatic, I would consider it. When it is rebuild time. Sorry about the off topic, I worked for them in Colorado. A...

Not enough.

The ignitor is the rectangular piece of metal that has a metal fins on it. That is a heat sink, if you don't know. The ignitor is a solid state trigger device for the coil. Unless jetjock (or 3P) has a better description. The ignitor turns on the coil at the command of the ECU signal which...