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If you see it slide one gear when you install it, then maybe you should try a little Kentucky windage.

You don't adust. If it is off a tooth, it is not installed correctly. After you install it correctly, you can check for build up inside the EGR tubes. But maybe you shouldn't.

You know the spec is .001", not .012". That would be one thick headgasket. The problem is pistons sticking out of the hole, as well as a weaker deck surface. I am glad it is running good.

1100 for AEM? The old HKS system was about $2500 in parts. The fuel computer PFC-FCON, graphic controller for fine tuning, GCC, vein pressure converter to speed density plus dyno time to tune. Not cheap. You can do much better than that on ebay these days for prices. Look up the MAFT-Pro.

You want to spend money to tune a VPC but not other piggybacks? I guess I am not following. The best replacement that I see for the VPC is the MAFT-Pro. It is speed density like the VPC, but costs less and is more user friendly, from what I have read here. If you plan on big power, you really...

2quicks mod is the one I would do if I would do one.

Pull the EFI fuse for 30 seconds. By showing the description, I was hoping you see the contradiction in 31 and 34.

31 is the airflow meter signal. It means you are not getting the Hz signal in its voltage range. 34 means the airflow meter is showing way to high of a frequency signal. Clear them and recheck.

That is certainly interesting. It looks like you are still firing waste spark. Which does not hurt anything. Which JZ coils? Must be 1JZ, because the ones I have seen are two coil waste spark.

Your coolant line is about the half way point on the resevoir. The hot line anyway. It is supposed to be. If it is half way and leaks, then you have a hole. See why your post doesn't add up yet?

What I said is absolutely correct. It isn't rocket science, is much easier to do than an automatic, and requires no special tools. We probably don't conisder the same things special tools. [/COLOR] What if they call it the R series?

Ideally, the rounded elbow coming off a T4. Do you mean flanged for a C26, or some other internally gated unit? If so, the divorced downpipes are the best performing. I have an HKS unit, and think it works just fine. It has a flex section, which prevents damage from torque over the road.

Yep. But not for us. And not the inline six you are thinking of, but for Land Cruisers outside the US. And their turbo diesel V8.

The best way to check for vacuum leaks is visually, and with a vacuum guage.

Do a tear down, then decide if you can't rebuild it. Is that on the website somewhere?

Build a good 7MGE and turbocharge it with stand alone. Have the head ported professionaly, install larger cams and dial them in, and a stout short block around 9.5:1 compression ratio. Then a T04E based blower around 15-18 psi.

BMW also uses turbocharged inline six in gas and diesel in new cars. Sucks to be us. But hey, Toyota gave us the Scion Xb.

It comes off with a puller tool, not by hand. When it is almost off, it will likely fall off. Seems like the anchor bolts are 8 X 1.25. But if those don't fit, don't force it. Get the 6 X 1.0.

A bad starter won't store any diagnostic trouble codes.

Or pay someobody competetent with a Robinair machine.