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Yeah, don't do that. It should turn with resistance when cold. And soften up when warm. Even though the viscous fluid thickens when it is warm. Another thing is when you first start it, the clutch will be noisy. It will quiet down in a minute or so. This is an audible check that shows it working...

Jdub has a thread on how to do it if you are unsure. But I have pictues in the luxosled thread. I bought both from Summit Racing. Originaly, the relocation kit from Perma Cool was not in stock, but the individual parts were. So I bought the individual parts. The reason I change it was the nipple...

Manufacturers only use electric fans when they can not use a mechanical hook up. It will last a long long time, in addition to the cooling. The faster the engine is turning, the faster the fan is turning. How convenient. :)

That is your best move. Don't forget your new OEM thermostat. You can also get a new stock radiator.

If you are doing it yourself, you have to have the EWD for your year. Did you check the IGN fuses yet?

Make sure the fluid is good to go first. Fresh fluid and proper level. Fluid level is checked hot only. The cold level is for refrence to get you close. The correct when warm. At higher throttle you have higher line pressure. That makes it shift harder and faster. It is supposed to work that...

Yeah. Either you don't really have a solid connection or the CPS doesn't work. The tach is driven from the ignitor output. Can you get your hands on a scope?

One more time. Will it immediately restart? Or does the restart fail if it has been sitting 10 minutes? Try it. Shut it off, and attempt to restart in 10 seconds.

You could always wire the relay to the ground side.

It isn't too late to get a thermostatically controlled thermostat and adapter like my original Perma Cool or the new Canton piece. It will make oil changes easier. Is that on your list?

The gasket burned from my seperate mistake. But take note of the EGR cooler gasket. Get the stocker, wait and do it right.

You should run the stock new fan clutch for maximum cooling effectiveness. A new radiator from Toyota, PWR, Fluidyne, or whomever is probably a good thing. If your radiator is original, it is probably in sad shape internally. Electric fans are not suggested nor needed. They do not cool as...

Those are correction factors for EFI. You are going to make me get the book out again for fail safe. I am certain they do not create a start inhibit mode.

A manual rebuild can be done without any special tools, and is much simpler than an automatic. Just a thought. I think the repair manual is more than detailed enough.

Hardcore....the only thing you are missing is a bumpersticker that says I would rather push my Toyota than drive a Honda.

Aren't you glad you didn't change transmissions again? That is the point of the test where you drive it unplugged.

Does the check engine light come on when the key is in the on position? My thought is no power to the ECU. I will have to bust out the 850 manual to see why it wouldn't turn on. Have you gone into the kick panel yet? You can check these to start...

The only error codes the system can store are from its inputs, and that is the speed sensor circuitry. You can't clear a hard fault. I had to go read about pulling the codes on this. Always on isn't good. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BR&P=53 Check the...

I don't have an 87 EWD, but the 89 online should be about the same, if not exactly the same. The computer energizes the relay, it doesn't supply switched power. The switched power is fused. If you can jump the relay, the ECU is not supplying power, or you don't have a ground. If you can, check...

I think it says it will bypass the fine filter when there is pressure build up. When it does that, it goes through the 8-10 micron filter.