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The "racoon" will always be special to me.

And after it runs for 5 minutes of non idle, shut it down for 10 minutes and check the level to add if needed.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?39059-Tookwik-s-7M-C.O.P.-ignition-mod-w-stock-electronics...pics-and-writeup

Or you can just buy your own copy. Then you can just flip to the page while sitting in the driver seat.

The stock air flow meter was ruined because it is not a mass air flow sensor. There are more technical descriptions on why the hot wire meter as it is sometimes called can "count" air molucules and seperate the moisture and account for density. But the Toyota link is just an over view for you.

When he had customers that monkey with cars (and you know that never happens), we adjusted it by having your buddy sit in the car and tell you the 51 stopped flashing.

It most certainly does have those. I think maybe you are comparing the diagrams at the back of the repair manual with the standard electrical wiring diagram which is a book. That is what I was refering to. And it does have all the connectors, wire routing, ground splice locations, etc.

For the record, your car functions with conventional brakes when ABS is not working. The default position of the solenoids is all open. Which is why bleeding is also conventional.

Even better than a MAP, a Hitachi built hot wire mass air flow Ford unit from the Ford GT. I think it is 90mm.

I didn't like mine. They warped quickly. Yes, they really do that despite the Stop Tech article. I went back to Toyota OEM, which might also be Brembo. I can't remember any more. And it is possible my bad fronts were a one time defect.

I would look at the wire before the sensor. Open means the circuit is not complete. The ECU can "see" the infinite resistance. It could be the coil. But the only ones I have changed were rusted pretty bad. The rest have been wiring that was damaged from road debris.

Rest assured, Toyota has nothing at 12.5:1 a/f ratio.

I think 240 is possible. But yeah, the head will need more flow and more cam timing. That just isn't a lot of displacement to pull the same rwhp as an LT1. In fact, most LT1's are really about 225-240 stock.

Does anybody have the Nippondenso part number for the alternator rectifier? I could have sworn it was on the rectifier, and now I don't see it. Not the regulator bolted to it, the rectifier. The rectifier fits many cars, not just ours. I had it this summer, and don't know what I did with it.

Starter, charging and ignition is complete in the EWD without whatever the supplement is. I have seen updates that get stickied right over the old page. But not a book of changes.

Baloney. The easier it is for the heat to escape the exhaust manifold, the faster the turbine will come up to speed. The only down side on a turbo car is the noise. Those that run bad run bad because something else is wrong. Completely unneeded and a possible emission failure down the line...

Which circuit on the 1990?

The dealer network can still get them. And you can find them on ebay. Which one is 104F? I am not at the house. I have 88 and 91 Supras.

Yeah, that is true. Although I have seen two igniters go south. They were both Corolla's.

This doesn't quite add up. I was going to say if you are sure about the injectors no longer firing, that the igniter is heating up and on its last legs. So if you lose the ignitor, injection is halted. But you wouldn't have spark. ---------- Post added at 10:37 PM ---------- Previous post was...