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I have the 88 factory repair manual and the EWD. It is better to own if you think you are going to deal with the car yourself.

Only when the car is a shit box without receipts to verify.

It isn't the damage. It is the fact that he showed up to SILV and put a pizza ad on his car.

Sue for replacement cost. Assuming he is insured.

No problems here. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-TOYOTA-SUPRA-Service-Shop-Repair-Manual-OEM-91-FACTORY-DEALERSHIP-/400320784225?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item5d34fa6761&vxp=mtr

Just giving you the correct sequence to my comment. You have pictures. Here is the page. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=140 The mechanism reaches if the trans is installed correctly with bellhousing bolts and mounts. Don't take this the wrong way, but...

There is a lot more to an intake leak than having hose clamps tight. Like a crack. I don't know what it is, but if it starts easy, and you didn't say yet after asking, then I would think about something like that rather than engine control. And aside from that, I don't have a comment on your...

We didn't put any thread locker on any stud or bolt. In fact, if anything, it was a lubricant. Things like BG In force.

Video. Following assembly if it doesn't stay running but starts easy is an intake leak or plugged exhaust. Get a vacuum gauge on it.

It will shift from park if you have a shift over ride button in the upper right.

So I have recently noticed while looking for a hard top. Only to find it isn't a hard top.

Mine has switched power and constant. Go figure...

I know this is nitpicky, but a custom grind from Comp or Crane might if it is a blower cam. The postive pressure will still go in. But it likely won't be open for very long.

That was the basement of pricing. There is a 7MGE model on autotrader and it has its sticker. 32k, no sport roof, no turbo. 92 was the fewest, followed by 91.

Actually, yes. As for the several months old OP, go shoot a few things first.

Yes. There is an ignition wire. You need to look at their schematic again.

And don't try to set timing n the fuse box next time...

No, the discussion is E85 which has lower power levels than gasoline. You claimed it is higher, when it isn't. It isn't debatable, and you are filling peoples heads with nonsense. And it is politically foolish to buy it.

Ask on how to use it. The directions are not real good. I found directions from the DSM group based on trial and error. For example, you don't set boost in PSI or Kpa. It is done as a duty cycle. And if you put the display in psi, 14.7 or 1 bar is displayed as 147. No decimal point.

Other blockage was not uncommon in days past, or more current from some. Those old GM round compressors would cast their withers with some regular frequency.