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LOL, no threadjacking, and there are many meanings ;)

They're glass, normal compound won't work on them. They're low to the ground and with the milage on these cars they're pretty well sandblasted...

loud = rice ;)

Scarab conversion ;)

It's probably the best conversion I've seen. Stock is better, but for a conversion, damn nice.

If you dropped a valve it would cause a LOT of damage. More than likely it's a worn shim so it's clicking a bit, check the clearances (this is all in the TSRM).

MKIV lights are cheaper than 89+ MKIII lights these days LOL

Maybe I'm crazy.... but it doesn't look half bad. At least it's bolt on and keeps the same basic body lines...

He runs the same year round ;)

Don't understand it myself, just a heads up...

Watch your oil pressures with that cooler, some people have had issues with pressure drop.

Just flake the clear off as it comes off. If you wetsand it it will look ok for about a week then it will start peeling again. Replace the trim. It's a rubber coating over metal that's meant to seal. 89+ tails won't match the molding, up to you...

Well, you have the bearings in the spindles, the half shafts, and the diff. Bearings in the spindle are the most likely to go out. The half shafts last damn near forever if they stay sealed, so check for tears in the boots. The diff could be a number of things, but check play in the pinion...

Nope, the friction modifier actually makes it more slick. SO add it until the chatter goes away. Grinding could be any number of things in the back (lots of joints/bearings), are you sure it's the diff?

Yeah, the #1 suggestiong I can give you is to inspect before you buy. The nice think aobut the 2J is you can source them locally out of known good cars (junkyard, pull the engine out of something that's there from a collision). Getting some JDM engine on a crate that has tons of corrosion on...

Not true, as you're rolling the dice and hoping you actually got a low milage and non abused 1J. If you spend that money on the 7M that you already have (unless it threw a rod, ect), you'd have a brand new fully forged motor that will take more abuse. This is coming from someone that wishes...

Most anything has a chance of attacking the seals and the bottle itself. It's just the nature of the plastic...

You can get it pretty clean, but the yellowing is age/heat/UV and the only way to fix it is to replace it in my experience...

Hell, if you went with a larger turbo, it's just coming online at those revs, you're just going to hurt you in the end...

Get a clue... http://www.freemars.org/jeff/planets/Luna/Luna.htm