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Correct. Not to mention the ECU is tuned for the EGR to be there and removing it can cause damage (but we don't need to start another one of THOSE threads). Your real options are: - Replace EGR - Replace ECU with a JDM one (they didn't have EGR) - Get a standalone ECU

federal cars don't have that sensor and won't have that code.

former Cali car?

Takes 2 seconds to check codes, anything else is just guessing...

Yeah, it's a limited release so far (bastards)

http://www.marlincrawler.com/transmission/rebuilt-complete/r154-2wd-heavy-duty http://www.marlincrawler.com/transmission/rebuilt-complete/r154-2wd-race

Gotta pay to play LOL

1: 2: 3: Clean stock saws look pretty damn good. Stock, unmolested car is rare these days, keep it cherry!

Bad shift can seriously damage the transmission. You'll have to go through everything to figure out what really went wrong though as we're only guessing at this end.

Nice greeting guys :icon_roll Ignore them. So it sounds like you're trying to do a RWD conversion on your neon? If the bellhousing bolts up to the motor, the hard part is going to be the clutch and the rest of the fabrication. Sounds like and interesting project, we have an other cars...

Car has to be running first ;)

And if you read that entire thread you'd know it's NOT the issue. Yay for triggering a relay with a relay :icon_roll

If your targa car feels loose... And WTF on the loctite? Use ANTISIEZE on the targa bolts, not loctite LOL

Keep in mind if you damage the gears, the MC rebuild will be more.

Top Secret http://www.topsecretjpn.com/roberuta.shtml

Higher boost.

IIRC the BOV on the 1J is on the cast pipes that go to the twins, so it's probably still there. And the twins go out when pushed hard...

Paging IJ...

They'd still have to pull down, and the only proper place on the targa is the mounting points (any other place wouldn't take the loads). I could see using clamps from a convertable top to pull it down, but they're big...

I do, didn't see it...