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Don't forget the War of 1812 ;) Not to mention the Cold War. And if it wasn't for the good ole US pumping lend lease equipment into the UK prior to Pearl Harbor, the Brits would be speaking German. If we didn't win WWII, what do you want to call it...a draw? Wouldn't want the facts to...

He is :3d_frown: Seems he believes everything the highly credible British tabloids print. And has completely ignored the numerous friendly fire incidents the British inflicted on themselves during the Falklands campaign...including the one where two British Army companies fought each other...

Yep...cracks in a MHG is a bad thing. If you inspect it and find any damage to the metal at all, the MHG is toast. Tig - soak the MHG in paint thinner over night...that should soften the old viton up ;)

Ummm...I wrote that thread ;) It's the viton that causes the problem...you have to remove it to re-use a MHG for the reasons in that thread. Also, to re-use it, you have to have something to effect the initial seal...that's why in this case a spray sealer is a good idea. Just make sure all...

And Mike Malloy threw a stock rod at 540 HP with ARP rod bolts ;) And there have been others...and it wasn't because of a bad tune either or "lack of competence". Didn't say they couldn't do 600 HP man...I said you are cutting down your margin for error. The stock rods were never designed...

Keep in mind fuel cut is there for a reason...to protect the motor. If you are running the original stock HG, you need to back off the boost. This site is littered with sad stories of "How I blew my head gasket" and the majority were turning up the boost without building the motor to take...

12 psi is where you will generally see fuel cut...it depends on the outside conditions (cold vs warm) and the AFM sensor. Some motors will hit it a little sooner...some a little later. You need to run your boost gauge off the fitting at the rear of the manifold where the stock ones gets...

Simple...my oil level. I can be low on oil, the temps rise due to less volume capacity, and the pressure shows as good. ;) Next, my oil cooler...is it warm? Or is it clogged? Do I need a bigger one? I'm also going to check the coolant...as said above, if your oil is hot, it's very...

There's a stock coolant temp gauge that will tell me that just fine...it shows coolant trends in plenty of time to stop the car before damage is done. He was asking about after market add-on gauges. I can see wanting to know a more precise oil pressure perfectly...the stock gauge is not that...

Not too confident in "gut feelings" myself ;) Keep in mind the oil directly cools the bearings, valves, cam shafts, and turbo...the effect of heat in these areas is significant. The oil temp will tell you far more about what's going on inside the motor than water temp will.

Why thank you SC ;) You're dead on IMO. If I had to make a choice, I would run an oil temp gauge...coolant doesn't break down when it over heats and the result is self critiquing. The stock gauge is adequate. Oil on the other hand loses viscosity as it get hotter and will break down due...

Turn down your boost ;)

Well...IJ re-used his ;) And I know a lot of people who have. It's perfectly safe to do so...if it's not damaged or bent...especially considering the cost of a HKS Stopper. Like previously mentioned, clean off all the old viton sealer (paint thinner works well) and give it a good coat of...

The stock rods are fine for the mid-400 HP range...after that, you are starting to push your stress limit on the rods. Some have been able to take 500-600 HP without failure...others have thrown a rod in the low 500 HP range. The problem is you don't know...leaving a margin for error is always...

The rod is taken apart and has a very small amount of material milled off where the cap mates with the rod. The cap is re-installed and it is then "bored" to OEM spec or to match your crank if it has been turned and micro polished....this allows the use of a stand size bearing vs. an oversize...

If you want to do it right...used rods should be re-sized ;)

You have to remove the box...the fuse screws in from the bottom.

The sensor is bad, your EGR valve or the EGR VSV is bad. And disconnecting the battery WILL reset the code in the ECU.

Nice work Andy...as usual ;)

You will need to take the rods to a machinist to get them re-sized. Get them matched to the crank so you can use a standard size or over size bearing.