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Then ARP changed the spec...since you don't need any help on this car, good luck.

Did the same damn thing! "Why all that black smoke coming out of the tail pipe?" ;)

It sure is...since he used motor oil, the ARP stud torque spec is 105 ft/lbs...it's 81 ft/lbs w/ moly. The torque spec should not be exceeded.

That's exactly why I asked ;)

No it will not. I run 1 quart over full on the dipstick for "insurance". Where are you getting a high volume oil pump for the 7M?

Have you tried pulling the injector clips one at a time?

Yep...the wheels should be torqued. I use 80 ft/lbs myself...can't ever seem to remember the 76 number for some reason ;)

Yes he should be worried about oil pressure...especially if it's the beginnings of rod knock. What you are looking for is the pressure above the 2000 rpm range. If the pressure at that rpm is/has fallen off from say a month ago and he is using the same brand/grade oil, it's not good. Falling...

Sounds like the "clacking" is 1:1 with engine rpm...sorry, but that sounds like rod knock. Does it get louder around 2500 rpm? You can pull the injector clips one at a time and see if the sound dies off on a certain cylinder...if it does, it's rod knock. What was the point of the oil vids...

Try a Goodyear Gatorback Poly V-Belt...I've had good experience with them.

You got lucky ;) Even the Cometic MHG has a RA spec...50 RA to be exact. If you install a Cometic without ensuring the minimum RA on both the block and head, you risk failure. You might get away with it...then again, you might not...do it right, do it once ;)

Best prices I've seen for 7M rods is Flatlander-IPP: http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/importsbottom.html Eagle - $485 Pauter - $1000 Crower - $1035 Eagle rods are forged...Pauter and Crower rods are billet. Flatlander also offers reconditioned stock rods (new bushings...

What torque did you use when you tightened down the ARP studs?

Have you checked the harness that runs across the front top of the motor above the cam gears? The heat in this location makes the insulation brittle...you may have a short. It could be the CPS...here's the TRSM info on it...

If you are hitting fuel cut at 10 psi, you likely have a boost leak.

Code 12 is the NE, G1 and G2 signals from the CPS...at least one G signal is required for the motor to run. If both are missing, the car will not start (no spark). Code 11 is a momentary interrupt of power to the ECU...likely not the problem. Code 51 is the TPs...also likely not the problem...

Do you have any ECU codes?

I'm not forcing my opinion on anyone slick...at least not any more than you are ;) I never said it was wrong...nor never set "imaginary" limits. When you start pushing 550-600 HP guess what becomes your #1 problem? Avoiding detonation with the tune due to the dynamic compression inherient...

Remove the P/S Res...you don't have to disconnect the lines and just move it out of the way. Use a shorty 14mm wrench...the hex for the wrench is on the bottom of the dome just above the threads where it screws into the block. Very little oil should leak...the oil drains down to the pan from...

LOL...the only verdict that's in is if you choose to use the stock rods on a high HP motor is the prep required. As usual, the devil is in the details ;) If you choose to go cheap and use the stock rods on your expensive, built, 600 HP motor, you can: - IF you have the rods thoroughly...