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They don't have to be grounded but they do have to be in the engine. Even with good wiring you'll never get rid of the code with the sensors hanging loose.

None of that stuff can work unless IGN 1 is on so you might want to look at that line. These kinds of problems are best troubleshot by dealing with the simplest circuit effected. Once you "fix" it the odds are everything else will go away. In this case I'd go for the windows or fogs.

^ That would be bad. Also, as MDC pointed out, always check for a normal MIL code whenever the diag block is jumped before doing anything else because if the IDL contact is open timing can't be set.

^ Yep, unity gain. Non-inverting if I'm not mistaken but I'm a bit rusty.

Ignition secondary voltage will rise to whatever it takes (within it's design limit) to jump the plug gap. That means when it's connected to the plug it only needs to go to around 15,000 volts to ionize the gas mixture. Once the plug fires voltage falls to about 5,000 for as long as the spark...

What pump? The fuel pump? I can't believe it....

Sensor wire to OX, HT to one heater wire, the other heater wire to ground, and the shield on the OX cable goes to body ground at or near the ECU. It's E1 on the ECU but body ground is the same. The heater wires on the sensor are the same color while the O2 output is the third one.

Well, the heater needs to go to ground and technically OX should be shielded but it should be OK without it. Maybe :)

What happened to "pretty damn solid" on electrical work? ;) Yeah, it wires to OX. The heater wires to HT and ground. The OX at the diag block is only for testing. Nice to have but not needed.

Run them directly to the ECU. In fact that's the right way to do it. Everything you need to know is here: http://tinyurl.com/26sxm3

I believe the limit is .11 mm. If so he's still off a zero. More confusion. if it's really .012 mm the head is, as stated, usable. In fact that'd be an understatement.

Sigh. Yes you can but it's going to be a job. You'll need to run at least one wire if using a non-heated sensor. Three if using a heated sensor. Look at the ecu and see if the wires are already there. If this is beyond your skills you'll have to have it done. How did it pass emissions like that...

That is a good idea since every remote start system I've seen has a hood interlock. Simple and elegant. I said I'd bow out but a few final comments: 1) The CS unit is inexpensive. It's not cheap. Other than a few gee-whiz features it'll do pretty much everything this box will and do it well...

O2 is unplugged? Jeez guy. You need to fix that because what the TCCS does in closed loop effects open loop. Not that I feel it's related to your problem but when I'm helping people I'm assuming everything in the car is hooked up. I should know better though, every one of these cars I've been...

Hey, us mere mortals need to eat. Was good too. Wife is Russian and cooks everything from scratch. Not much of a drop so good news. The odds are the system is able to deliver what fuel the engine needs. Did it do anything weird then or does it only do it under boost? The bouncing may be...

Wait....dinner ;)

Ok, so it can't be the relay. Still could be a restriction in the supply side or a goofy pump. Snap the throttle wide open with the regulator line off (and plugged) and watch fuel pressure closely. The rest pressure is bleeding off at one of the points I mentioned and is a separate issue. What...

Alright, I'll cut you some slack ;) Pressure is a tad on the high side but working. Fuel pressure with the line off is always going to be the same with or without the engine running. The rest pressure is bad though. You've got an internal or external leak somewhere on the pressure side of the...

I need to write something up about this code 11 and grounding thing in the SME section when I get a chance. It's not as simple as people think. Note the error code description specifically mentions B+ and everything associated with it while saying nothing about ground. Looking back over my...

The back up lights are supplied off the gage fuse as is control power for the seat and windows so yeah, a short in that line will take the things you mentioned out. Something is shorted after the reverse switch so the problem must either be under the car towards/at the rear of it. That fuse...