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I don't know which is a better indicator...that he can't spell or that you can't puzzle it out ;)

Sorry, no pix. Car is many miles away. Your sensor looks small enough that you may be able to fit in the cooler return bolt area. Good or bad I have a habit of drilling and tapping banjo bolts. Cheap and effective way of gaining access without modifying "real" engine parts. For example my CSI...

What wrong with a plate? I prefer sampling temp away from the engine and after the oil has been through it, say the pan or teeing into the oil cooler return hose. Mine is on the return banjo bolt but it's a custom deal (type K tc) and very small. Some use hose to extend the sensor it but imo...

I'm late to this party but fwiw that's about the mileage (just after the warranty expired iirc) I re-torqued mine after buying the car new. HG was still good at the rebuild (110K miles). Who knows what would have happened if I hadn't though. Could have gone either way. Does that help? ;)

It's 1/8 bpt, close but not the same as npt, and the port mentioned is an oil pressure port. Not the best place to measure temp but it'll "work".

Don't worry...there's not a change in hell of it happening ;)

Well, if the exhaust manifold gasket was leaking it would have been running rich so that could explain what you found. You may not be rich now. That said whenever the engine is suspected of being out of fuel control it can be easily checked by following the TSRM procedure for O2 sensor testing...

A genuine nugget there and one that would prevent a lot of posts...

You need to loosen the big nut on the pulley. The tensioner bolt is only for that, setting tension.

Lamo. Presenting GrimJack and Shaeff, walking the walk. :bowdown:

You'll have to open the sender and either replace the span resistor inside with a new one or add a 10 turn pot in it's place. There's a separate mechanical zero in there too. Then you recal the sender with applied pressure and whatever standard you trust, say a good quality pressure gage or...

Then fix them. There's enough information on this forum about code 51 to choke a goat yet you, with 270 posts, still think it has to do with the ac switch. Plus you seem to expect the engine to run right without a valid load signal, one of two critical inputs the engine can't operate without...

Lmao. Not only does he forget to mention the codes but then goes on to ignore them...

My "dam" TRSM says 10. So does this one: http://tinyurl.com/2yownl Which one are you reading?

^ Not sure what that means but a stock 7MGTE runs in closed loop all the way up until about 3-4 psi.

Keep in mind it's not possible for the CSI to operate unless the key is at the start position. If it's leaking fuel it has to be doing so in the mechanical sense because all power to it (and to the cold start time switch) is removed the moment the key is released from start. The easiest way to...

Well, just to be sure, ring them out one at a time with the AFM and ECU connectors unplugged before you go unwrapping the harness. Might as well prove the problem before going that far.

Nope, not your problem, at least not your idle problem. In fact a bad (open all the time) stock valve won't effect much even at full boost because a healthy turbo can easily overcome the "leak". I've changed many a stock valve where the owner has driven around for months and not known it was...

Are you talking about the stock CBV? If so it being open or closed will have zero effect on idle. If unplugging yours (which closes it because it's normally open at idle anyway) is effecting how the engine runs the problem lies elsewhere. That said if you're talking about an unrecirculated BOV...

Ks can't be accurately measured with a DMM because as Nick said it's a pulse with varying duty cycle. The voltage spec given in the TRSM reflects what a typical DMM will display but you really need a meter that does frequency. Either that or a counter. A stock and untampered with AFM at idle...