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Hmmm...how's your oil pressure at idle and at 3000 rpm...both when the motor is warm? The Red Line 10W-40 is thicker than what I would use, but it's not going to hurt your motor either....especially where you live. If the motor has 30-40K on it, the 5W-30 should be good, if not better, to...

^^^ That was going to be my comments almost exactly :biglaugh: MA71 knows not of what he speaks...pulled that comment from where the sun doesn't shine. The fan/cooler combo does an excellent job of keeping the ATF cool...in fact, I'm thing about adding a 180 deg temp switch to mine to...

This is a good read...Toyota filters are not as good as you may think...not near the quality of a Wix or PureOne ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763 Wix = NAPA Gold...you can also get the Wix online at Rock Auto. PepBoys carries the PureOne. Either of these filters...

Thinking of a thicker oil as insurance is a very common misconception. In a 7M, the bearings were *designed* to use a viscosity in the 10-11 cst viscosity range at ops temp. All of the oils I mentioned will do that nicely...using a heavier oil actually restricts flow to the bearings. It will...

The Amsoil XL series of oils are Group III base stock...the 10W-30 you are using will not hurt your motor, it's a very good oil on par with or better than Mobil 1, Castrol SynTec, Valvoline SynPower, etc. Since it's not a Group IV or V, by definition it is not a true synthetic oil...it's a long...

Tis true...the oil squirters are a "controlled leak". The spring in the squirters function at ~45 psi. Keep in mind though the oil flow path...pump, filter, motor. The relief valve on the oil pump is the 1st pressure control...the cooler relief valve is the 2nd. Oil flow will follow the...

LOL...care to explain that? Especially the part about how a cooler (the same size) will have better cooling ability with the IC in front of it.

With a fan moving 590 cfm...don't think it's a problem ;)

In front of drivers side wheel well ;)

I'd go for the thicker rings myself ;)

Yeah...I remember that. I'll tell ya though, it takes a real man to realize what he's doing might not be the best. Good on ya ;) You are correct, the German Castrol has dried up...AutoZone stopped carrying it so it's almost impossible to get. That is too bad...prolly the best oil they had...

There's 2 relief valves in the 7M (3 if you count the filter internal by-pass)...take a look at this: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=LU&Page=2 The 1st is on the pump...this is the one you would shim for more pressure. Once shimmed though, you are going to...

Check your coolant temps...over 210 deg the ECU will also pull timing. It's one of those corrections I mentioned above ;)

Oh yeah...fixed!

Might want to visit the oil section...hate to break it to you, but the 0W-30 German Castrol I'm using is thicker than most 10W-30 oils at ops temp and is actually close to a 40W viscosity at 100 deg C. Not that I would know what I'm talking about or anything ;) Now I know you need to do a...

Are you getting a knock sensor code? If so, the ECU retards timing a max of 10 deg. If the knock sensors are disconnected, a code 52 is generated and will cause the timing to retard...there is no way to easily get around this that I know of. The knock sensors "listen" for a 7 khz frequency...

Yep...did mine a few weeks ago. With a pressure washer too ;)

The B&M coolers w/ fan are nice...got a temp switch included for the fan too. Keep in mind the stock cooler is immersed in radiator coolant...it's effective, but not as good as the B&M IJ is talking about.

JJ doesn't "candy coat" his posts. A meter will tell you in a heartbeat...suggest you listen to him and avoid the "lets throw parts at the problem" technique.

Looks like the Auto tranny brace is different from the R154 too.