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What Grim is referring to is the age of the rubber...even though the dampner may have been on your car for 39K miles, if it is an original one from years ago it is very possible the rubber is hard/dry rotted regardless of the mileage on your engine. You will have a hard time seeing it as well...

Nope...won't work. You need nickel anti-sieze.

Check your 100 amp Alt fuse in the engine compartment. Also, the EFI fuse in the same box. Confirm the battery is hooked up correctly and connections are secure. Check the voltage on the new battery to confirm a full charge. When you washed the engine, bet you got water in the spark plug...

That's what it looks like to me as well. What kind of oil filter is/was on the motor?

Hmmm...well, he has a NA motor and that's not what he was asking. There will be "some" gain even on a NA motor. Post to contribute to a thread...making a wiseass comment based on personal assumptions is not helpful. IMO, a test pipe is not something I would do...the gain is not that...

^^^ Ummm...he has a NA motor. A test pipe will make it "slightly" louder. Just make sure the length is correct.

Marc3's diagram is the best (and correct) way. You want vac on one side of the can to pull vapor from the cam covers through the can so they can condense there. The way you want to do it will pull most of the vapor straight into the TB off boost (since manifold vac is much stronger). I agree...

Perhaps a dumb suggestion...did you check the connection at the sender? The connector has a rubber cap (or should) that fits around the dome top of the sensor. The connector is inside the cap and is a bit of a pain to attach properly.

Call the dealer an price a new stock dampner...what you find out is going to make the ATI look like a very good deal ;)

HP benefit = min Protect motor from harmonic vibration vs worn out stock dampner = priceless

You should be fine re-using them...just so long you went to the torque I posted above.

Doh!

The diameter of the bolt flange needs to be turned down on a lathe to fit the dampner.

Since IJ reminded me, I'll tell ya. Allowing the rad to ground against the frame turns it into a big anode. The current will erode the metal in the rad and deposit it elsewhere in your motor. It's only a matter of time before the metal erodes to the point where you pop a leak.

That would be a very good idea ;) You want it completely isolated from the frame...that means rubber on the bottom too.

The OEM HG is fine...a lot more sturdy that is given credit for. Just so long you don't up the boost to crazy levels and you torqued to 68-70 ft/lbs. The Wix (NAPA Gold) or PureOne should be the least expensive. BTW - the German Castrol only comes in 0W-30. Don't let some "parts guy"...

It's called "vibration dampening" ;) (not to mention electric current isolation)

LOL!!!! (Tough crowd) :biglaugh:

Outstanding! Glad to be of help ;) Might need a new gasket for the exhaust manifold...get a Toyota OEM. It's a MLS type gasket; much better than the after market ones. Since you can still get German Castrol in Canada...I highly recommend it. Read this thread...Post #10 tells you where to...

Yes...read up on it in the TSRM. The cam marks have to be pointing at the index on the plate behind them and crank dampner index pointing at "zero" Constant blink = no codes stored.