Search results

That's what I use on the Javalina that keep tearing my cactus Pretty damn effective...fun too :biglaugh:

These guys are right...you have to remove the fan shroud AND radiator. Same as if you were replacing the timing belt. This might help to prove your point with the dealer: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=22

Update: Changed the manual transmission oil on my '94 Toyota truck with Red Line MT-90. Been in for 3 weeks...shifts very smooth now...I could feel the difference in shifting on the 1st drive. Previously it had a "dragging" feel going into gear and I could hear the synchros. Not a sound...

Hmmm...that's the 1st time I've heard anything like that about Amsoil. It's one of the best oils available, don't like the way it's marketed though. Multi-level marketing leaves a bad taste for me. LOL...I edit the posts like this to keep the thread size down. That way folks can get to the...

Heehee...I wouldn't recommend it either ;) This distinction can cause a guy with a high HP street machine problems...he sees the term "race' and thinks it's better for his motor. In the case of oil, this is definitely not true. Any HP gain you would get from running a certain oil is...

Of course he's not...he wants to sell you oil ;) The additives are different for racing oil...it has a different purpose and engine longevity is not one of them. He proved this point with his statement about the O2 sensor...the add pack in a street oil is formulated to keep any deposit to a...

Yep, the 1st 20 miles is critical...you will not be able to get the oil up to ops temp in time to make this. Just so long you have good pressure, you should be fine. You can do additional passes if you want to make "absolutely sure"...3-4 runs to ~4000 rpm through all the gears should be...

Yep...that's what I would do. Run any good quality API rated oil...Valvoline, Shell, and Wal-Mart Super Tech are fine. For the initial run use a Super Tech filter...I'm a believer in the "Hard & Fast" break-in method. You want to make several hard runs to ~4000 rpm...you want to get to...

The earliest I would switch to a syn oil is the 1500 mile point on the motor...the rings should be seated by then. Going longer before the switch will not hurt a thing. After the initial break-in (500 miles) using a straight 30W, use nothing heavier than a 10W-30 dino oil. When you switch...

Never been overly impressed with Quaker State myself ;) Now that Shell owns Quaker State maybe they will work on improving this oil as well.

It's an outstanding oil ;) It is a Grp III base stock, but they have enhanced the refinement process...to the point where there is little difference between it an a Grp IV/V base oil. Plus the add pack is superb...Penzoil Platinum is producing some of the best wear analysis I've seen. You...

Well Ric...that's because you pay a premium for a mediocre oil. Same thing for a Toyota filter. There's a heck of a lot better oils/filters out there that what Toyota uses and may times at a cheaper price too...you might want to do a little reading in this section ;) And who said...

No tech data at all I can find. I do know Quaker State (Q Power) is owned by Shell...as is Pennzoil. Shell produces some of the finest motor oils available...Shell Helix, Rotella, Pennzoil Platinum. Shell Helix has been spec'ed by Ferrari for many years and is the factory fill...from what I...

190-200 deg F is where you want your coolant temps. Below 176 deg, the ECU will direct warm-up enrichment....above 210 deg, it pulls timing to prevent detonation due to heat.

^^^ BTW - Shimming the relief valve on the pump DOES have an effect on pressures ;)

Guys...pressure needs to be read with the oil at ops temp (warm motor). the TRSM has you hook up a mechanical guage where the dash oil pressure sensor is to get accurate pressure readings. You want to take pressures at idle and 3000 rpm. The oil viscosity (10W-30, 10W-40, etc) has a big impact...

Don't know a lot about that oil...I'll have to look at it ;)

On a stock cooler circuit...Doesn't make any difference.

Clock should be working too ;) FYI - The TEWD has the power source listed for most major components here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=032 Pages 32 & 33. Useful for narrowing down the problem circuit ;)