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Missing a couple ;)

Starting to sound like a broken record: You could always try to do a search....:3d_frown:

Yeah...stopped a long time ago trying to "educate" the parts store know-it-alls on anything concerning oil...they are some of the worst when it comes to the many oil myths floating around. I assure you Red Line is far from being anything close to crap...Red Line makes some of the best synthetic...

There's no "hatred" for RP...that gear oil contains friction modifiers intended for an LSD differential. It's not intended for use in a tranny that specifies a 75W or 80W-90 like the R154/W58. There are a couple others that also contain friction modifiers...Red Line 75W-90 is one of them...

Big fan of Red Line MT90 myself...use it in my Toyota truck, shifts smooth as silk.

Might want to read this before you put RP gear oil in your tranny ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44485

And you can come out to AZ and I'll show you a set that's 14mm 12 point. Just because you got a 1/2" 12 point does not make them all that way...In fact, I've never seem that size for a Supra. And 14mm = 0.5512 inch ;)

Turn your boost down....10 psi. Drop your fuel pressure to 25 psi w/ vac on. Dump the FCD...get a MAFT Pro. You can go to speed density, control fuel and boost. Upgrade injectors to RC 550's. Once you do that, I would hold boost at ~14 psi considering you have a stock composite HG.

The difference is at the ECU: Yellow ECU plugs = '86.5-'88 harness/ECU Grey ECU plugs = '89-'92 harness/ECU

You're running 10-12 psi...that's less than half of stock fuel pressure (assuming vac line attached). The ECU will compensate for a small amount of added boost...if you are hitting fuel cut, that's not a small amount. What boost are you running? What size injectors? Stock AFM? Are you...

I run 27 psi (vac on) on the AFPR...that's with a Lex AFM/550 injectors. I think we have a winner ;) Here's what it should be: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=73

Look at this: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&P=7 I would also check the cam bearing clearances: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=48 Pay attention to bearing cap order and torque sequence.

Valve shim clearances.

Ok...so what did you remove to have only 3 vac lines? The knock sensors will retard timing only when they sense knock in one or more cylinders. If you have knock when you describe (low rpm), something else is wrong. Have you checked for codes? Not all codes will cause the CEL to stay on.

Best thing would be to pull it (mark the pick-up position) and clean with a can of electronics cleaner. Might as well replace the O-ring that seals oil at the head...you'll need a new dust cover and rubber gasket too ;)

Check your fuel pressure and your vac lines. (in addition to timing, plugs & wires)

Yeah...I like the Aeroquip push lock hose myself. Samo, samo Quick...what you been up to?

^^^ Built a high HP beast :evil2:

Shimmed mine ~3mm...that gave me +10-15 psi of pressure. Personally I would not shim over 5mm unless I was building a high HP beast. Extra pressure is only good to the point your lines can accommodate the flow...the oil channels in the motor cannot be enlarged. Once they reach capacity, extra...

^^^ What they said ;) http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ Your oil will get dark over time...if you use a by-pass filter in addition to the full flow you have now, it will take longer to get dark, but eventually that will occur. The only way to tell if oil has lost it's effectiveness is with...