Depending on the head casting, a lot of times a 1/2" deep well socket will not fit down the hole to engage the bolts...the wall thickness of the socket is too much. You have to use a 3/8" socket with a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter for the torque wrench.
This type hose and the associated fittings are a cheaper, excellent qulity alternative to the stainless lines:
http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php?shop=Hose&dept=Super!_Stock!_Hose
(What the good Dr was talking about)
For oil, AN-8 is adequate...AN-10 is a bit over kill IMO, but I...
Chevron Supreme Synthetic is a Group III base stock from what info I can dig up. Here is the data sheet:
https://www.cbest.chevron.com/generated/MSDS/PDS7674840.PDF
The 5W-30 has excellent cold flow viscosity, the 5W-20 is only slightly better...personally I would go with the 5W-30...
I'd give Pennzoil Platinum a try. Based on what you've said (JDM motor, possible bearing clearance problem), the 5W-40 European formula may well best meet your needs. Shell Rotella T 5W-40 would also be a good choice. Both flow fairly well cold and will provide an additional oil film...
Freak - I'll have to research motorcycle oils a bit more to give you an accurate answer. Off the top of my head, cycle oils do have additional anti-foam and anti-corrosion additives above what you'll see in an automotive oil...this is not necessarily a good thing. Keep in mind these additives...
A squadron mate took a bird (turkey buzzard) in middle of an F-16 canopy low level at 580 knots. Came through the canopy and hit him in the left shoulder...lost control of the aircraft at 500' and punched out. After multiple surgeries, finally got back on flying status after almost a year...
^^^ Might want to research your oils a bit better ;)
Amsoil is a PAO based synthetic...German Castrol is a PAO synthetic. Both are considered a Group IV oil...the difference is the add pack and the way Amsoil is marketed using a MLM scheme. IMO, German Castrol is as good (or better) an...
Been beat to death...here's a little light reading for you:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html
ARP is very specific about using their torque spec on their hardware...I highly suggest you ignore hearsay and follow the ARP spec sheet.
Care to explain why? Or are you just pulling a number out of thin air?
If ARP hardware is used, the ARP torque specification should also be used. More than one HG job has had to be redone because ARP studs/bolts were not torqued properly...however, an over torque is worse than under...
The squirters are also a source for losing pressure...a controlled leak. They are suppose to function at ~40 psi...if one (or more) get stuck open, it can be a significant loss of pressure.
IMO, a better option vs changing oil frequently is to use excellent filtration. Addition of a by-pass...
How many quarts of oil did you have to add to get it back to full after this "incident"?
Once a bearing is damaged, it's damaged and only replacing it will provide a long term fix. When oil pressure builds inside the bearing, it provides hydrodynamic lubrication to prevent the bearing, rod...
Make very sure you check the head/block deck for flatness per the TSRM. If you do decide to go with a MHG, there is an RA spec for smoothness that also has to be met...this is not required for a composite gasket.
Heed what what Chris said about ARP torque specs. The sheet he mentioned is...
The knock sensor does "listen" for a 7 kHz frequency...this is the frequency that is produced when the engine experiences knock. However, this is not what produces a code 52. This code indicates a problem with the knock sensor circuit (open or short), the knock sensor itself, or the ECU...
Any oil thermostat (including the RX7 cooler) bypasses the cooler until the oil reaches a preset thermostat temp. The only difference on the RX7 cooler is the thermostat is built in...the oil does not flow through the finned part of the cooler until that temp is reached.
The hose routing is...
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