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Not a good idea if you want a decent idle.

Ok...run the SuperTec filters for the 1st 500 miles and change to the same oil...switch to dual Wix to the 1500 mile point, same break in oil. Change to the Wix/Trasko combo and go with the GC. Add 1 quart above the full mark on the dipstick and you're good. Yep...it's ceramic coated...the...

Yep...plus what you mentioned about the input to the TC. A SSV4 should be able to control the A341. Inputs to the ECU (speed sensor #1 & 2) and the speedo will have to be modified to work...sounds like it would be stand alone time, an AEM or Motec. This would be a lot of custom work ;)

I'm thinking the body tunnel will have to be enlarged to accommodate the bell housing. Not to mention a different spline/length drive shaft...plus fab'ing a rear tranny mount.

Congrats Allen :bigthumb: Glad it was the valve...weird idle can get to be a real pain to nail down! I have a chrome body ISCV...PM me if you're interested. Are you using a single or dual remote oil filter head?

Posted this (post #20) in your other thread: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1056

My TCCS book is at home...I'll get the numbers to you in a couple of days. Meanwhile, unplug it, start the car and see what happens.

Go through that link on Mk III Tech step-by-step...you're eliminating pirate air as the problem. This also assumes you have a good IDL signal from the TPS. Looks like you're going to spring for a 24mm allen wrench ;)

Carlos - An under tray will help...it can knock 10-20 deg off your temps. A leak will allow air in the sys. I suggest a pressure test and have the fan clutch checked...here's how to check the clutch: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1056 Fletch - take a look at the TSRM link...

Allen - Take a look at this: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=876 I'm starting to suspect your ISCV.

Believe the guy's name was John. Think about what stall you want to get...gonna depend on when your turbo spools and is a tradeoff against slip. I'm running a 3000 stall...IJ is at 2800 (he's got a fast spooling turbo). IMO, anything much above 3000 is for a drag car. Also might want to...

Well...IPT says it will hold over 500 HP. Took mine to the track a while back and ran an 11.81...good enough for me. Also had it at 150 on an oval...no problems. A good tranny cooler is an excellent idea...I have a Spal fan on mine too. I also installed a filter head w/ a trasko bypass filter.

I had my tranny built by them...excellent experience. Tranny performs as advertised ;)

IPT has my vote ;)

Carlos - make sure all your fans are working...I would take a good look at the fan clutch as advised. Do you have a condensor fan (fan #3) installed? http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=AC&P=30 Here are the temps for fan 3 and the aux fan (fan 2)...

I wouldn't, but it's been done on many occasions with no apparent problem. IMO, the risk of head expansion (especially during an overheat) snapping a bolt is something I would not want to deal with. ARP bolts/studs are just not that expensive.

To do it right, both the block and head need to be re-surfaced to the RA (smoothness) spec for the MHG you choose. The block/head MUST be perfectly flat. The thickness depends (assuming you want to retain stock compression) on how much material is removed from the block/head. There is .039"...

From one of Reg Reimer's tech write-ups: I have not been able to find specifically where the OEM bolts are TTY, but I suspect that they are. Based on Reg's write-up, when the bolts are torqued to factory specs you are taking it into the beginning of it's inelastic range...in effect "using...

This motor is full of "technicalities"...something a lot of folks seem to ignore. Tell you what, if you're interested in what harmonic vibration is and what it does I suggest you read up on it. It's actually torsionial harmonic vibration...the frequency depends on the natural resonance of the...

Kinda, sorta true...not completely accurate. The stock damper is balanced, you can see the drill marks where that was done to prevent the damper from contributing an oscillation vibration to the harmonics produced by the crank. It's purpose is to dampen (reduce the amplitude) of harmonic...