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1) Jumper T and E in the diag block. 2) With key on and engine off turn on AC. Don't touch the gas pedal. 3) Read codes on MIL.

I want my three minutes back. And where's the NYPD when you need them...

Aha, so I was right. Damn online TEWD shows a three. Gotta forgive me either way. Don't own an N/A. Try to avoid them as much as possible ;) edit: I was looking at the sub...

It's three wire? Huh, thought they were one. Book shows three so that's what I get...

No, it shouldn't be a problem unless it's badly plugged, which is unlikely considering all the crap those things let through. You might want to check it though. You might also want to test the sensor first but then again if it's old just replace it...

It's the heater wires that blow the fuse. That said I forget if N/As are one or three wire. The book shows them to be three wire but...

That's with a new cat? I can only imagine what level of CO is coming out of the manifold. The engine is obviously not in fuel control. Start with the O2 sensor. Codes would be nice too...

I use smaller versions of the springs clamps found all over the engine. Prior to that I used what IJ said in matching colors for the hoses. Either will solve the problem. 17650 is for the Fuel Pressure UP system. 25860 is for the EGR. The CBA line is indeed missing on that diagram and connects...

Crap shoot was a poor choice of words. Most gages need to be matched to the sender because of different calibration curves and gage design type. The odds are against this working. If you can get the specs for the ProSport sender and compare them to the Greddy you could save yourself possible grief.

They're generally the same in that the majority are thermistor based. Most are NTC. Beyond that it's a crap shoot...

Exactly. The problem is nowhere in the thread have I seen you do that. Does the TSRM say "No continuity signal to ECU within 2 seconds after engine has been cranked"? Have you checked for NE and G signals with a minimum of 1 volt p/p coming out of the CPS? Have you checked the CPS pickups or...

You need the BVSV only if you're going to retain the EVAP system. Since you don't care about replacing the EGR why would you care about having the EVAP system? Does your immorality and flagrant disregard for the law have limits?

^ Yes, it would, at least when dealing with other than a 51. I dunno guy. It's odd the ECU is happy with 2 volts but not with 500 mv, which is within range. Might want to try the same tests with the 14050 or spring for a new 14240. Could also put a 10K pot on the ECU connector with the TPS...

Lol, they do. I made all that up btw...just like the first post ;)

Understanding of the PCV system can be gained by visualizing the pressure differences at each end of the piping under both conditions and the resulting flow cause by those differences. When the manifold is less than ATM flow is into the throttle body port with the accordion providing dilution...

Offhand it escapes me. Around .187-.200 iirc. Maybe .250 It's less than the port though. Must be why they call it an orifice eh? :)

We're talking about tenths of an inch/h20 at rpms where the engine spends most of it's time. It's from 1) the slight pressure drop across the air filter and AFM and 2) flow across the port at right angles. Think blowing across the top of a bottle. IJ is technically right though. And larger...

There's always LN2 ;)

How many times do I have to say it: the ECU does not deal in resistance...

Ha. Unjump IDL and E2 and see if the 41 comes back while still clamped at 500 mv edit: Forget the brown TPS. For now stick with the one that came with the car even if it doesn't fit the TB...