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God reads SM? Damn... Since bearing races are hardened those types of cutting tools won't touch them. Grinding will. By 'grease trick' I assume you mean filling the cavity? That'll always work if done right. It has to. How did you do it? BSG: Crude, but effective ;)

Code 42? 1) Again clamp the TPS at near 511 mv. Unplug it and measure the resistance between E2 and VTA on the TPS itself. Are all these TPS used? What are the part numbers on them? On the ones installed and being used for these tests? What year ECU is being used? Is it the one that came with...

No code now huh? I suspected as much. The high idle is expected because of the increased VTA with the throttle plate closed. The ECU was enriching the mixture to about 2% CO. This (and no code 41) tells us the ECU is good and the signal is getting into the computer. I was thinking you might have...

The BVSV has nothing to do with EGR...

Clear memory, set the TPS (or a spare) when off the TB so VTA is 2 volts measured at the ECU, and try again.

Sigh. Post up the codes currently set then clear memory and start over with the engine put together.

Good stuff ;) OP: I dunno what your problem is but I quote from the Toyota EFI/TCCS Service Training Handbook: "Leakage of engine oil from turbocharger into exhaust or intake pipe will result in white-colored exhaust. If this occurs check for crushed, deformed, or clogged oil return pipe. If...

Mmmm....slush ;)

I should have worded that better. The air mix damper blocks the heater core. All air entering the system does go through the evap. Whether it goes through the core and how much is determined by the air mix damper. Your complaint is the air is slightly hotter than ambient with the AC off and CC...

Shops swapping parts. Ugh. At least when people do it themselves they aren't being charged. Anyway, you done good :)

Sounds normal to me. The air mix door doesn't completely seal off the evap. Appears you have nothing more than an AC problem which if I recall correctly is what you started out with. At any rate fix the cooling system first like Doward said.

I deny grump. Most knowledgeable is open to argument. Both are little more than vicious rumors perpetrated by my enemies ;) Reaper: I meant to check Vc's voltage but as I said that's grasping. The TRSM has resistance tests, which are fairly worthless, and what Ks voltage will typically be...

The answer isn't intuitive but still simple. What happens (when the materials are the same) is everything expands equally, making the clearance between fastener and thread larger. Think about it...

^ Lmao. No, but I think you're nevertheless right :)

Your best guesses pretty much suck ;) Pumping the pedal when cranking does absolutely nothing in a fuel injected car. Holding it to the floor is another story but we won't get into that. Fuel pump gets it's power through the EFI fuse both during normal operation and when using FP to run...

Yet another case of oval things gone wrong...

Oops sorry, since we're in the N/A section I though you were using the vane type. Barring contamination the Karmans should pretty much last forever. Mine is 21 years old and works like the day it was new. You might want to check Vc to be sure it's not gone high. That's reaching though. Could...

There's no way for the ECU to fry an AFM. The ampacity simply isn't there because the current to it is limited inside the ECU. I'm guessing your AFM(s) were already worn. Read used. Not the best way to go when dealing with a vane unit. That said autopsies might have been helpful....many...

Having trouble with that space bar again? Your injectors are fine, at least electrically. As for the AFM I've said it many times: The ECU does not deal in resistance...

Do it the easy way first: 1) No 51 with the AC off and throttle closed. 2) 51 with the AC off and throttle cracked. 3) 51 with the AC on and throttle closed. Anything else, do what you suggested. Clutch activation without idle up is usually caused by a bad AC amplifier. Course there could...