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We don't know where he's got this temp sender located. The coolant is hotter in places than others and as Jdub said a rise in OAT will decrease the delta T across the radiator, as will AC load. I'd remove the t-stat and see how much excess capacity remains. That'll settle any question about the...

Not much. That's the point. Yours seems to be that since you saw 5-7 cars run hotter with the t-stat removed they were designed to do that. Or that any cooling system is designed to. I was once behind a car on the highway whose trunk suddenly exploded in a fireball. Was that typical behavior for...

Doesn't work that way on this car Hommer and while lower hose collapse occurs on many engines it's nearly unheard of on this car even with old hoses. No spring in them either. Although I know maybe you'd care to offer insight on why? Frankly the OP worries too much. He should forget about this...

It's called Residence Time in fluid mechanics and no, it needn't be considered with the t-stat removed. Residence matters more with airflow. It's why I get a chuckle outta the "my fan(s) pull XXXX cfm" comments...

Stupidity, checking the basics....appears you learned something more valuable than technical stuff ;) So the injectors were fine. You know, a set of noid lights or stethoscope would have saved you a lot of grief. Both are cheap. Same with a spark tester, vacuum, and fuel pressure gage...

Define "full"....

Anode and cathode? Testing must be done with things connected because the ECU deals with voltage, not resistance. You can buy a set of back probes for peanuts. As for making the meter leads reach during continuity checks you can always extend them. That's what a noob would do. A pro would just...

Touche ;) Yeah, I see now this is a swap. No wonder it doesn't work. And yeah again, I never believe people when they say they "checked" this or that and it's good. I have no idea if they did it right. In fact my experience is they almost always do it wrong, especially if it involves electrics...

Maybe he unported the suction screen during that little fiasco. If so that would not be good...

Guess that "lb/in2" thing is confusing to some ;) OP: There's no sense wondering what's going on unless you can trust the gage and the only way for that is to do what Hommer said. The stock gage is of a quirky design because it has to talk to the ECU and gives up some accuracy and response...

Odd. I've never seen one on a USDM that wasn't...

Maybe I missed it but two pages of posts and nobody mentions codes? Your understanding is incorrect. All that proved is the 12 supply, wiring, and injector coils are good. Since the ECU sinks the injectors it doesn't prove anything else. Not to mention for checking that the method you used...

Pretty tough to test a "fuel pressure" regulator without using a "fuel pressure" gage ;) If all you want to do is see if there's sufficient pressure in the rail to run the engine simply pop off the cover on the pulsation damper and look at the screw. For the future an easy way to gain access...

Weezl is right. In spite of your 11 years of experience (which appears to actually be 1 year of experience 11 times, (a completely different thing) you should listen to him. Being unknowledgeable about the EFI system (mighty strange for someone whose been around it so long) and possessing poor...

It's what tells the ECU the ignition switch is on and to turn on the main relay. Could be the ignition switch, a bad connection, or one of the fusible links. Lower right hand corner: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=036 Note the 30 amp FL AM2 link also...

As figgie implied the thing is hard enough to get at that you need to be sure it's at fault before going through the hassle of removing it. If you do end up taking it off you can mod it so that future cleaning can be done without removing it. All that takes is adding a port to the intake side...

The relay shunts a resistor that's inline with the pump. The circuit is fail safe in that this happens when the relay turns off, not on. Put another way the ECU normally keeps the relay turned on, only turning it off for high pump speed during cranking and when the engine needs more fuel at...

All you have to do to eliminate the relay is drive the car with B and FP in the diag block jumpered. That'll bypass it. A bad relay will also show up as a dip in fuel pressure during a snap throttle test. I doubt that's your problem but I have seen them go bad. On a turbo it shows up at about 3...

Probably something to do with hitting roos ;)

It should beep for as long as the belt indicator is on (with the door closed) when the ignition is turned on and the belt is not fastened. The belt indicator should go out at the same time the beeping stops. If the door is closed and the belt is fastened before the key is turned on there should...