Search results

Better to buy one but it can be fixed. Push out the pin and solder a short length of wire to it...

Do a snap throttle test with the diag block jumpered and the FPR hose off. See if pressure drops more than 2 psi. The loss of rest pressure could be anything from a bad FPR to a leaky injector. I'd be fixing that if I were you...

I'll be surprised to find out it's the ECU but we'll see. Lmao @ the hello kitty thing. Since my stepdaughter is crazy about that stuff don't be surprised if it comes back with something on it...

I'm not lost, just not there ;) New TB won't help. The ECU doesn't know squat about throttle bodies....all it knows is signal. If you'd like send me the ECU and I'll run a bench check on it. I have factory test gear plus some stuff of my own design that can do it. Might as well send the TPS too.

^ Doesn't matter as it can't possibly contribute. The left fender one (GP C) should be checked though because it supplies ground for the main relay. That said even though it's unlikely grounding is involved the possibility can be checked using several methods. For the electrically challenged...

So many "experts" and so little time eh Dub? It's why I'm posting less as time goes on. Your plea deserves to be blown off on that alone...

No. Check the charging system. If OK buy a new battery. Better still check the battery. Then buy a new battery...

^ Then there's something wrong with it. The entire point of EFI, aside from emissions, is to make the engine run well under all conditions. Mine does...

As always indeed. And your car isn't stock. If you want to avoid that sort of thing stop screwing with it ;)

You'd think so. Didn't say if he did or didn't ;) In hindsight it doesn't matter though as an overly rich mixture from the CSI would not last anywhere near a quarter mile...

Or STA *is* active and the solenoid contacts are bad. Wouldn't be the first time I've seen that symptom when they've worn to the point arcing begins. That'd keep the CSI on for at least 8 seconds...

And if I cared what you wanted to do I would have posted a good answer...

A two year old would take the car to a mechanic ;)

It's possible only if the injector is mechanically leaking. I suspect his problem is the use of multiple heads ;)

Removing it after it warms up would be bad. Think second degree burn bad. Normally you would drain enough coolant to prevent overflow expansion (a pint or so should do it) and then warm the engine up with the cap off. That's typically the method using the archaic POS (imo) kit Napa sells...

Same old story: code 14 = no injection. You have to fix that. Check for spark first. Code 22 should be easy. Check voltage between THW and E2 at the ECU.

^ Correct. There are simple ways around that though. Otherwise it'll work. Kind of. Without a HO2S the engine will take longer to get into closed loop and may fall out of it when exhaust temp is low, say during periods of extended idling. Considering all that it's more trouble than it's worth.

Actually his friend is right. So are you about about the impression being made. Lets call it a draw...

You should get 51 with the AC on in diag mode. As I said if not then a) The signal isn't leaving the heater control panel or b) it is but not getting past the amplifier. It has to exit the amp to turn on the clutch and tell the engine ECU AC is on. That's why the code is helpful: it splits the...

Then your problem is not with the refrigeration system, compressor, clutch, or pressure switches. The AC signal is either not getting to the amplifier from the CC panel or it is and the amplifier is not working.