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BOV normally doesn't provide an idle air path around the throttle plate. Pinch off the idle hose and the PCV line going into the TB. Engine should die. If not there's either a pirate air leak somewhere or the throttle plate is cracked open. If the engine dies check the ISCV and reset timing with...

That's because you were using it wrong, as was the OP. Used correctly it's a valuable instrument...

If the system is armed and the battery disconnected and then reconnected the alarm is designed to trigger for what should be obvious reasons. Iirc this behavior is spelled out in the TSRM and/or owner's manual. You armed it when you locked the doors and as pointed out were unable to cancel...

He's there looking at it while you (and others) are shooting from the hip. Maybe you feel the OP is too stupid or blind to figure out where his leak is coming from but I have more faith in him. You might want to try actually reading the thread next time too...

It's supposed to do that...

You're mistaken...

I dunno frankly. Never had them out. I'd imagine pipe dope or teflon tape (ugh, bad news that stuff) would do it. You can also get crush washers to use there, the composite/plastic type similar to oil pan drain plug gaskets. Napa has them. Or O rings, which is what I use on the upper plugs that...

Big is good. I dunno how many amps sheet metal screws can handle but that wire will probably take more ;)

Lmao. That pretty much sums it up. OP: Check the fusible links...

Nice chassis ground ;)

^ This. However to answer your question I typically see a rise of an inch or so on the hottest summer days when I bother to check, which is usually just after engine shutdown. The cold level changes much less and is always within a 1/4 inch of the line I added. That level is, of course...

The loss of rest pressure (which will cause starting problems, usually when hot) should be treated as a separate issue although it's possible to have it related to the other symptom depending on where it's "leaking". That's why I said you ought to fix it. The fuel pump check valve could be at...

The 14 mm plugs lead to the head coolant jacket. If those are leaking you'll need to reseal them.

The TSRM procedure can be confusing if you're unaware of how the igniter works. Member isnms does a nice job covering it here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47334&highlight=igniter

Your car has heating/cooling ducts that exit under the front seats. The water may be coming from there. How it's getting into the duct would be the mystery. I'm assuming (perhaps incorrectly) a plugged AC drain hose in the evaporator box or some form of rain water leakage into the climate...

AC drain clear? I forget if the evap box can drain to the rear seat duct but thought I'd throw it out anyway...

Big C clamp ;)

You're breakin' my heart Ian. Aviation iridiums are $74 each and there's two per cylinder. That's $900 in plugs for a six banger. Champions of course ;)

deabionni: If you're going to toss that AFM I'll take it off your hands. It'd be nice to have as a spare...

Disconnect the hose and, while monitoring fuel pressure, quickly snap the throttle wide open from idle several times. Fuel pressure should not drop more than 2 psi. The test works best when the engine is running ;) edit: no can read?