Search results

If you're sure the relay is working then it's time to check for voltage at the pump. Substituting a meter set to amps for the +B to FP jumper might also tell you something...

3000 centistokes for the oil. I agree this sort of symptom (overheat at idle but not cruise) is indicative of airflow problems, either a bad fan clutch or external blockage of the radiator. Could be be the rad is partially blocked internally too. Best way to test that is with an IR gun...

So you grounded the wire going into the alarm computer? That's not going to work... Now you got it to crank? Time to check for spark and fuel...

You usually hear the pump running with the key on? It's not supposed to do that..

Which end of the wire did you ground? You know, all of this would be easier if you just took IJ's advice, bought a test light, and did some real diagnostics instead of flailing around...

The stock alarm isn't complicated once understood. The problem in doing so is Toyota's poor description of how it works. The switch designations in the EWD are confusing but at least they're better than the 87 model year's documentation. There the pin numbers are wrong and entire parts of the...

Chris: The electrics will work because there are trigger switches in the solenoids. The alarm will trigger off that alone. Shouldn't even have to open the door. Also, the handle has to be held on early cars but iirc there was a change made in later years where it didn't have to be done.

^ Right. Could be a shorted noise filter too. Unplug it, the igniter, coils, and injector resistor and see if it holds...

Without going into detail it runs the EFI and some ignition stuff. Blowing is sometimes caused by melted O2 sensor wiring or a harness short near the EGR valve, although I'd expect the EFI fuse to blow first in those cases....

Does the pope live in a big house? Do bears shit in the woods? Click on the link... edit: beaten by CJ...

Well then you'll just have to run it down: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=122 And gelboy is correct in that additional door sensing is done by the courtesy switches. My bad. Should have looked first...

Sensing is done by unlocking, not door opening. In other words the triggers are in the solenoids. Sounds as if you're talking about the seat belt lever. Does the alarm indicator in the cluster do anything when you lock the doors?

1) The factory theft deterrent system was standard in 1987. It should be in there. Gets a bad rap at times but fwiw the one in my car has worked flawlessly for nearly 22 years. 2) That sensor is not alarm related. Climate control stuff. 3) Keyless entry was not offered that year but one is...

Dunno if it helps but the factory test spec is a minimum of one liter in 30 seconds. Alloy: Wise decision....the Delorean thing was a bad idea.;)

What schematic shows that? It's different in that he's right and you're wrong. The only ground on the starter is through it's body to the engine block. Starter control from the harness is 12 volts.

Lmao. Feel better? It appears you have a reading comprehension problem. Show me where I said it had to be the ECU and only the ECU. Go ahead dipshit, post up where I said that. And show me where I commented on Vc being shorted as unable to be the cause. I didn't, because I'd given up on you...

You be welcome. Either way make sure the hole/valve gets mounted in the vertical (12 o'clock) position. Despite it being clearly spelled out in the TRSM some people don't do it...

You don't have to cut it off. Call it an old school thing from the days when stats didn't have bleed holes and we had to drill 'em. It's one less thing to go wrong. On the other hand you loose the bubble breaking action of the jiggler. Myself, I always snip it off...

Ok, I see what happened. The ignition switch is electrically good but you had a mechanical failure. Since the turn signals and wipers get electricity from the same place on the ignition switch it's odd one worked and the other didn't though...

^ That makes no sense at all...