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Yeah, no cranks are a huge mystery alright. Any possible failure of the starter circuit on an old car is totally beyond anyone's comprehension or the ability to effectively and intelligently troubleshoot. Maybe NASA could help. Nah, probably not. Time to break out the bag of chicken bones and...

Hmmm. Of course I disagree with you. Drop testing will reveal problems even when a circuit is "working" and is one of the best methods to use for finding the kind of problem you had. Furthermore because of the current involved I can think of no place where this is more true than the starter...

You should have drop tested it. Now you have to wait and see if you guessed right...

A lot of it has to do with basic morality and (generally speaking) the younger people are the less of it they have, something that's amply demonstrated everyday on this forum. And for the guy above, not only do you suck as a person but you're also not very bright...

You be welcome. Assuming the COR is really bad you should replace it. It's there to stop fuel flow after a collision. Fix it or risk becoming a crispy critter...

Look here Sparky: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=22 Unplug the relay and jumper pins 1 and 2. The fuel pump will now come on with the ignition but still be under ECU speed control, unlike what would happen if you used B+ and FP in the diag block. The AFM...

Uh, just bypass it until you get a new one. Problem solved. And make sure it's really bad and not the AFM switch that's the culprit...

Not that it matters now but he meant pull the fuse, put it back in, and then drive the car...

It could be, especially if there's no juice at the FP relay when cranking. As long as the clutch switch is closed and the key at start power supplied by the ST1 section of the ignition switch energizes the starting coil in the Circuit Opening Relay. The COR then passes power from the EFI fuse to...

Hmmm. Glad I'm not flying Prowlers outta Whidbey...

Nice goin' Ace. Other than that I'm at a loss for words...

There will never be other codes as long as 11 is there...

Yeah, aside from just knowing it's funny how the location, connector type, connector color, and wiring colors exactly match those of the theft horn and how all that information is clearly shown in the TEWD. Go figure ;)

Theft deterrent horn...

^ At last, after 40 posts someone who actually understands...

I think you mean Q, not O...and it does matter.

You offer little to go on but I'm going to guess an incorrectly done bypass of the neutral safety switch...

Placing the meter across +B and FP is putting it in series. The factory test spec for that procedure is no more than 6 amps. Mine runs at 4.5 Using a scope lets you determine the condition of the pump's brushes, commutator, and read it's rpm....

A stock pump draws about 5 amps ;)

Sounds about right. Target cold idle speed is mostly determined by coolant temp, with oil pressure (assuming you're still using the stock gage) having a minor effect.