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One more thing: You should argon purge the ID of the stainless tubing while welding the OD. If you don't it'll sugar...

4043 for the filler. 3/32" pure tungsten for the electrode, balled on the end. Zirconiated or lanthanated with a point will also work. You may be able go with 1/16" if using lanthanated. Lots of people use thoriated and get away with it but the arc isn't going to be as stable. About 15 cfh on...

See that hole to the right of the bolt? The harness for the hood switch is supposed to come out there. The wires may have fallen down behind. Not that it has anything to do with your problem. For that you need to read post # 9 again...

^ Standard legal stuff Jon. You never know what some of this crowd will do. Btw: http://tinyurl.com/6yo4xq In spite of the legendary name I'm not that impressed ;)

It'll prove the O2 sensor is working, connected to the ECU, and the ECU is able to operate in closed loop. All that's left afterwards is finding out why the system is unbalanced. My money remains on a bad load signal...

Looks like it's stuck lean. Got a propane torch? Connect it to the brake booster nipple on the intake manifold (unlit of course) or shoot some carb cleaner in there with T and E jumpered while maintaining 2500 rpm. Does Vf change?

What are you using to measure it and what range is the instrument set to?

Your TPS is fine. The code 51 activity you PMed me about proves that, as does a closed VTA of 384 mv. That's a bit high but well within what the ECU needs to be happy. Fwiw if you block the ISC hose and the PCV port on the TB the engine should die. If it doesn't you either have a leak or the...

Too many antperes...

Doesn't idle but drives normal with a bad fuel filter. Does that make sense?

What you missed is that there are no seals in the turbo that can fail and allow water into the oil...

He means the engine is not being controlled by the O2 sensor. Look in the book concerning that. Keep in mind a bad signal from the sensor doesn't always means a bad sensor though....

Sigh. The advice to flush is worthless because it won't solve the problem. Nor will the fan clutch. Fix it right instead...

Lmao. I warned him but nooo, he has to learn the hard way....

^ This. The engine is clearly not in fuel control. Also what Jag said...

Damn Nick, that engine is pristine. Looks like mine. You're missing a few of the factory widgets and the boost sensor line is out its clip though. Minus 2 points for that ;)

As Jdub said assuming the thermostat is good everything you wrote points to a bad radiator...

I'd comment but I'm still lmao over the EGR thread...

All of what 3p says is true but adjustable emissivity doesn't come cheap. A way to get good results is to use a strip of black tape on reflective surfaces. That's what I do for things like the T stat housing and accuracy is then very good when compared to my Type K surface TC. Also accuracy...

Mine is the Raytek ST25 AutoPro. Dual laser focusing, lighted head, ºC or ºF selectable with peak hold, magnetic base, 16:1 spot size. Accuracy ±1%. Does a nice job. Like Mike most of my other test and measurement gear is Fluke but I'm slowly switching over to Agilent. Btw no...