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The check engine light blinks simultaneously with what? And everything was fine before you installed the timer yet you don't think it's associated with the problem?

I see. Well, since it'd be difficult to develop that energy from a primary winding of 140-180 ohms I suggest you scrutinize the TRSM more closely....

Coil packs as in ignition coil packs?

I agree: reuse them. Rather than bore you with the properties of spring steel I'll just say every spring band clamp on my 87 save one is original. Furthermore I long ago replaced the few stock non-band clamps with CT. I've never had any of them leak. I suggest getting a couple of tools for the...

It has to do with the neutral safety switch. If the CC ecu thinks the tranny is in neutral or park (or the clutch depressed) it won't function. Start by checking that. You can use the engine diagnostics or just measure that input on the CC box. Also run the CC diagnostics to check the sensors.

As Shaeff pointed out you have much bigger problems than a bad TPS will cause. Based on your posts you really need to take it to a competent mechanic. Or any non Test Only smog check station will be able to fix it...

The hose shouldn't fail that often. It sounds like you have an ECD problem. I suggest you pay more attention to coolant potential and use either OEM or Gates hoses, both of which are formulated to be ECD resistant. You should also use the correct constant tension clamps and be sure the heat...

Make sure the heat shield for that hose is there. Many cars are missing it...

Replace the hose(s), pressure test if possible, and fill with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water. Use Toyota coolant or G-05. My preference is for G-05 but you may have to flush the system depending on what was previously in there. Best to flush it regardless. Might want to splurge on a...

Yellow/green is temp gage. The other is O2. Connect it and cut off the shield where it exits the jacket. And never beg...are ye man or mouse?

If it's a California car all of those codes will illuminate the MIL but none of them will keep it on...

One flash of the MIL. Two...two flashes of the MIL. Arrr...arrr...arrr...

The valve closes whenever the climate control system is set below 66 F (AC or not) and even then it maintains a small amount of flow through the core...

Meh, I've been known to give those things away. You should see the good stuff :)

Lmao....

^ What he and Mr Y said. And next time you set ignition timing first check no codes are present....

The OEM kits are complete and work fine as long as the bore isn't corroded. And there's no need for contortions. Pop off the switch panel and go through there with an extension(s).

I usually don't use anything on the threads but when I do it's an aviation product made just for the purpose: http://tinyurl.com/69shq5 A bottle will last forever. Whatever you use don't get any of it on the electrodes...

The Fuel Pressure UP VSV behind the alternator is used for hot starts. A loss of rest pressure will also cause hot start problems. Your problem is no crank though, not a crank-no-start. It could be anything from a bad starter to a bad clutch or ignition switch. You'll just have to track it down...

:3d_frown: I suggest you google the words "load dump" and educate yourself before giving such advice to people...