Search results

Teal: Right, it's a bimetal valve that opens when the coolant gets hot. The temp escapes me at the moment but it's pretty low. The valve is what keeps purging from occurring during warm up even with the throttle plate open. Justin: I'll be the first to admit modern evap systems are complex but...

The hose going from the cannister through the BVSV (mounted in the radiator) to the TB is ported vacuum. Means they'll be no suction on the cannister at idle but there will be when the throttle plate is open. The problem with that is with the engine cold sucking on the EVAP cannister off idle...

Ah, I see. He must mean the BVSV. It's used to disable off-idle EVAP purge until coolant temp is hot...

On a 7M? Which valve are you speaking of? For other cars that are OBD-II there's a purge valve that's used to auto test the EVAP system for leakage. It's part of the emissions monitoring software that all newer vehicles must have. The MKIII doesn't do it...

Damn, a look at the 87 schematic shows the HAC would have been messed up by that too. Means I missed another clue to the problem. Must be getting old. You should be good to go although you might want to check the TPS since you moved it. Anyway, glad it turned out OK and good job. Our work here...

You can improve upon the factory scheme by running a wire from the rear O2 sensor stud to the firewall...

After reading about the guy with the backwards wired fan I think I'm going to stay out of cooling threads ;)

I fall in the middle. I almost always take the car out of gear without clutching and clutch to put it back in. I've been driving like that so long it's practically ingrained. Doesn't get me anything but feels better for some reason...

That you can see other codes means 11 has been cleared. Let that be a lesson on grounding. I have the intake manifold grounds chained to the igniter and then to ground point C because I dislike having the ECU, igniter, and fuel injector grounds dependent on the block and chassis. I have yet to...

You didn't start anything and you really should have that ground connected. The problem I had was him saying that's all you'll need when in fact you need a lot more and *don't* need that ground for the engine to start. I didn't read the whole thread again but check to be sure you have +12 to...

^ Exactly. Guess I should have been more clear...

When I say left fender I mean on the inside of the engine bay right behind the battery. As for the ground being "good" there's no way of knowing that unless it's either measured under load or substituted. We're talking about a very slight severance in the circuit here. It's good the MIL comes...

Good thing I'm not hungry...

Nope....

I'd have to see said face before applauding the effort ;)

11 is caused by an interruption in the ECU +B/+B1 line. It can also be caused by a loss of ground but not as reliably as a loss of +B. A loss of +B will also kill the fuel pump so it's a double whammy for making the engine quit. There are simple ways of dealing with this if you have the...

Condenser fan...

^ Not the only bad advice in that post. OP: Improving the cooling system is one thing, using such improvements to compensate for an underlying problem is another. Since you're basically stock and since the stock system is more than adequate you should find the root cause of the overheating...

A missing filter won't prevent the ignition system from operating. An installed one that's shorted will but that's not your problem...

Jeez, another noob with a little experience who thinks he knows everything. All he had to do was look at the schematic. Maybe he can't read one. Between that and not knowing the difference between starting and warm up enrichment he ought to be asking UTI for his money back...