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The bolt has either loosened up again or the keyway is FUBAR. You'll have to pull the dampner (pulley) to be sure. $100 for a new dampner is good ;)

That's for the flux capacitor upgrade ;)

LOL...Yep ;)

Yeah, it's a handy pic I stole from here some where a while back ;)

NO...do NOT do that! I wanted to be sure you didn't...it's the #1 killer of the electronics. It still sounds like you have a timing issue...is your CPS set like this with the crank pointing at zero and the cam gear index's pointing up at the marks on the gear back plate. (Sure are a lot of...

Make sure you CPS looks like this with the crank pointing at zero and the cam gear index's pointing up at the marks on the gear back plate. (Sure are a lot of timing issues lately)

How about answering my questions?

LOL...that's the wizard from Conan. You know, the guy that has to deal with barbarians ;)

Toyota calls them a "One Way Clutch"...there is actually 3 of them. #1 (low), #2 (intemediate) and Overdrive. The ones I've seen break mostly are the #1 and on one occasion the #2...all were on motors putting out HP in the 300-350 range. Have not seen an OD sprag break. I suspect it was due...

Well crap...that's not good then ;)

Dude, you sound like Chicken Little ;) :runaway: You do need the 550 injectors when using a Lex AFM housing IMO, but you'll only "kill" the motor if you run it hard at high boost with 440's installed. Plus, you need the ability to adjust fuel pressure to balance out the AFR's (with...

Question...did you happen to clean the AFM sensor (with carb cleaner) when you installed it into the Lex housing? And, did you get the CPS/timing set correctly per the TSRM? Running a Lex AFM without 550 injectors risks running lean at boost...that will ruin your whole day. The fuel pump...

Yes I did...that's why I asked. I was thinking the coolant may have migrated aft of the leak to the block/hardline. Liquids have a bad habit of doing so ;)

^^^ Hardcore ;)

I amy have missed it, but have you checked the gasket where the water neck attaches to the block and the small rubber coolant hose from that hard line to the fitting on the water neck? Looks like there's more deposits in that area.

Geez, getting info out of some of you guys to help solve a problem is like pulling teeth. How many times have I told you to check the fan shroud?...at least 3, maybe 4 times. This is starting to make me believe you're a waste of my time if you're going to "interpret" what I tell you to...

Hmmm...sorry dude, I don't take pics to prove anything to anyone ;) If you don't want to believe it, that is your choice.

Looks 180 out to me ;) It should look like this: Make sure the crank is pointing at "zero" and both cam gears are aligned to the index mark on the back plate.

I missed you had a Fluidyne rad...no wonder your temps dropped like they did with no stat ;) Keep something in mind: You are in high boost runs for only a small percentage of the time. You want your coolant temps to be as close as possible to 190 degs for the majority of the time...if...

If you're going just over 200 deg after a hard run, you are doing well with a stock radiator. Also, the 210 deg ECU temp is based on a chart...it could be slightly higher. At normal cruise, 190 deg is perfect. If you want a drag car, you'll need a bigger radiator ;) You have to think of...