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Not your thread...because someone disagrees with you, it should be locked? Practice what you preach and consider other perspectives. Street racing is a crime, regardless how it came to be that way. The law has a way of stepping in when the idiots of this planet abuses the privileges we all...

I was talking about flushing with conventional oil at the 100 mile point...sorry, should have been more clear in the 2nd post. The earliest I would switch to a syn oil is at 1500 miles on a motor that needs to be broke in. If the rings are already seated, you can switch right away after you...

^^^ Either that or a pirate air leak in your vac or PCV hoses.

Looks like to me you're gonna have a traction problem ;) Curves are nice & steep between 4-5K RPM...looks like a bit of "chop" in the lines at peak RPM though. Ignition? When does the 4088 start to spool?

What plugs are you using?

SuperTech is cheap and it's a decent oil (and filter)...especially since you're going to dump it after a short period. Once you go to a syn oil at the 1500 mile point, use Wix or PureOne filters. RP oil is good, but for the $$$ there's better. I use Castrol European Formula 0W-30 (German...

Definite Darwin Award Winner (Or at least a runner up if he didn't croak) Happens about 2/3 into the vid. :3d_frown: Click here to watch Checking-a-Gas-in-a-Tank-Truck-w-a-Lighter

:biglaugh:

Fixed ;) Now you might get some sort of response now that what you wrote is legible. Changed the title as well to say what you're getting at. Might want to read this: Dealing with the "oldschool" guys (or: How to ask smart questions..)

Here's the review thread myself and Pitatetip did on the ShaftMaster single piece aluminum DS. Mine was for an auto tranny...PitateTip was a R-154. I'm very happy with this DS...no high speed vibrations AT ALL. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58990

From what I understand, CP does offer coating as an option. I bought mine through SIP Racing (suprarich).

If you get a used one (unless it's almost brand new), you'll just be doing it again in a few months...you could post a WTB in the Want to Buy section of the MK III classifieds. Jay Marks Toyota has them for ~$200 (Jeff Watson - 800-327-2087) It's not hard to do, but you have to remove the...

This is a good idea for your pan: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=293559&postcount=61 Cut a circle of metal a bit larger than the P/U hole in the tray, put 3-4 slots or holes around the bottom, and weld to the bottom of the pan to surround the P/U. Had this done to the pan I...

That is correct ;)

But a Mil spec part does ;) And Mil spec requires an ISO certified shop for precision parts.

The most common MHG's: HKS - 30 RA Cometic/Titan - 50 RA (or less for both)

Hence my comment on achieving a "mirror finish" and the effort/expense of achieving it. I had experience with targeting pods on AF fighters (as an operator)...I know what a machined mirror finish looks like and that is not even close to being necessary on a 7M ;) LOL! At least 5...

I ordered a set of CP pistons coated from the factory. With 0.200" wall tool steel pins sporting a double pin oiling groove ;)

Figgie is no slouch ;) I'm a believer in getting the decks as smooth as possible, but it comes to a point of diminishing returns and expense...mirror smooth is subjective as figgie pointed out...RA spec is not. If you're going with a OEM HG, a surface RA of 50 is plenty good enough...but...

198.5mm