Personally? I re-torque ARP hardware (both bolts and studs) and OEM bolts. The danger with going longer than 5 heat cycles is you *can* (does not mean "you will") get coolant under the HG if the bolts/studs loosen up...*if* that happens, it's only a matter of time. At 1500 miles, I would...
What you're referring to is the vac source for the EGR VSV on top of the TB...USDM has 2 there, JDM has 1 (for the BOV). The EGR port is forward of the TB plate and is in that location so vac cannot be supplied to the EGR VSV/Valve Modulator at idle. If you have removed the EGR, the one for...
^^^ That is a good design ;)
The "clean air out" side need to connect to the stock vac sources on the TB and accordion hose...I would use a minimum -8 line to connect this up.
I assume you are talking about Kendall Elite Full Synthetic Gear Lubricant (75W-90). If that's the case, it would be great to use in an LSD or manual tranny (W-58 and R-154)...it does not contain friction modifiers, so you'll have to get an additive for the LSD (start with 1/2 ounce and adjust...
Yep...the high levels of sodium and potassium indicate coolant. That leads to wear on the bearings and drive the wear metal values up just as the analysis shows. You also have a fairly high level of silicon...bet you're using a K&N air filter ;)
I would dump the 20W-50 for a 30W multigrade.
Fuel dilution is not that high, but it is a contributing factor...it will thin the oil more than you want at ops temp. With coolant in the oil, it can (and seems to be in this case) cause bearing wear.
Amsoil EaO filters are excellant...probably the best filter out there.
Good plan on the...
You can use moly or motor oil for lube...ARP recomends moly and sells it specifically for use on their hardware. One thing to add, ARP torque spec's are different for the lube used...oil specs are higher. The reason is moly cuts friction down significantly, allowing a lower spec.
The TRSM...
Thank you! It was a gift from my better half...I have a hard time buying a piece like that for myself. Too damn cheap...LOL ;)
What kind of automatic do you have?
Your wear metals are high and it looks like it's a direct result of coolant in the oil. Turbo failure *could increase* iron and copper, but the rest indicate bearing wear from damage caused by the coolant. You are getting some fuel dilution as well, indicating blowby on your rings. Both are...
Yep...one of the Seiko's I have is as well. Kind of a pain if you don't wear it often. I need to get a watch box that moves/rotates them for a few minutes every 12 hours or so.
BC also makes .5mm oversize. What I'm getting at is if you spend the $$$ to port, polish, and flow the head...do it right. You don't *have to* go with oversize valves, but you do need to think about what the objective is before you spend your hard earned $$$.
You'll still need to do a 3...
A few things:
- Cut the jiggle valve off the top of the T-stat...this allows a small flow through the hole and prevents pressure from holding the stat closed.
- Pressure test the system to make sure you have no leaks.
- Run a 50/50 (60/40 max) coolant/water mix...I use the Toyota Red coolant...
Don't recall the stock lift on the cams. Flow it where you plan on running it...if you're getting cams, 9mm is about max without doing more extensive mods on the head. Anything more is a waste. And, if you're going to do this, consider oversize valves...you'll need a 3 angle valve job (min)...
Outstanding oil...for those that want the best. You probably already know, but Red Line is a Grp V, ester based oil...same stuff they use in jet turbine engines. It resists heat breakdown better than any other and the additive pack is superb.
K&N filters are good, but there's better for the...
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