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It's not the cams per say, it's this: This is a lot. You need to back off those settings and increase your overlap. Jay - one other thing you might want to do if you have access to a 2J head is measure the volume and compare to your 1J.

The thermostat has nothing to do with what temps the coolant runs other than opening/closing at a set temp. Depending on the condition of the rest of the system, the coolant may contine rise, it depends on the capacity of your radiator and condition of the shroud/fan clutch to remove heat from...

It's not so much setting the cams to "zero" like an initial degree will, but what you did on the dyno with the adjustable cam gears. (You should BTW find your cams starting zero by degreeing them) Like IJ said, you took a lot of overlap out, raising your cc pressures as a result...if you do...

Not trying to scare you Jay ;) All depends on how much $$$ you want to spend. I wouldn't go over a 2mm MHG though for the reason stated. Personally, I think IJ touched on it earlier with the way you had your cams degreed.

It would solve the problem ;) And, you are correct, Jay will have to measure the cc volume. The only thing about using an uber thick MHG to lower compression is the effect on quench area...too thick a MHG decreases quench area and you increase the chance of detonation. It would suck to...

They would if you ordered the CP's custom (which you can) for what combustion chamber volume/compression you want. Then you can use a MHG sized + material removed from block/head decks. I just got a set of CP's in 20 over for a 7M that are also coated (ceramic top, moly skirts) ;)

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He wanted pics of a crack on a header ;)

I would start off with about 1/2 oz and go from there. If you get clatter, add a little more till it goes away.

The LSD is the opposite...it needs the friction modifiers the tranny does not. I would not use MT-90 in a LSD...you want to use Red Line 75W-90 that contains these modifiers. Another option is the above Ford 75W-90 and buy the Ford friction modifier...that is uaually better on a high mileage...

Well, it's not the Castrol Dex III...that's what I use ;) The flush *may* have loosened some debris in the tranny, especially if it has not been changed for a long time.

You Central FL guys crack me up....

Did he clean the filter (screen) in the pan? Have you adjusted the line pressure up (throttle) cable? http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AT&P=19 Is the O/D Off light on the tach blinking?

The gear oil used for the W58 and R154 are identical. Here are the updates I know of: Ford 75W-90 Pennzoil Synthetic 75W-90 GL4 Pennzoil Gearplus 80W-90 GL4 Amsoil MTG 75W-90 I looked at the Red Line site, it shows these dealers near your zip code: Might be worth a call to get the...

Aaron - That motor has a good track record with a 0W-20, including the Ford semi-syn oil you used. It should run and last with that oil. Keep something in mind when looking at the lighter oils...at ops temp, the 0W & 5W-30's tend to be on the thin side for a 30W multigrade (GC is an...

Basically you are correct. If you're going to run a Grp III hydrocracked dino oil, there's better oil available...especially at the price. (Poodles beat me) ;)

Well Matt, you need to figure out what gear oil the manual calls for...using Synchromesh in a tranny that's not designed for it can do more harm than good.

^^^ Do some more reading in this section, then ask that question ;)

Here's the link to A-1: http://shop.a1racing.com/index.asp?PageAction=PRODSEARCH&txtSearch=supra&btnSearch=GO&Page=1 Same pricing as HP Freaks...they probably have them drop shipped from A-1 anyway ;)